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A Better Choice

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To those who aren't used to boats, it might seem odd to the point of unpleasant, that when two or more boat owners get together, sooner or later they start talking about toilets.  But one of the big differences between living on a boat and living in a house, is that on a boat, you are far more closely concerned with the day-to-day realities that most people ashore completely ignore.  For them it's a case of turn on a tap and out comes water: another tap produces hot water!  You pull a plug and the water vanishes.  You flush a toilet and suddenly it is filled with clean water.  On a boat, however, none of this happens automatically.  Those of us who like to keep things simple manually pump water from a tank; heat it in a kettle; possibly pump it out of the sink and as for the toilet ...

For many years the norm has been to have a marine toilet that used seawater to flush out the contents of the bowl directly over the side.  There is no real objection to this: your e.coli apparently isn't that fond of salt water and doesn't last long.  Most sailors have experienced the sight of a shoal of fish rushing to the outlet and busily feeding, so you are obviously not disposing of noxious waste.  However, where you have a lot of boats gathered together there are reasons to worry about this arrangement.  For a start many marinas and inner harbours have a lot of fresh water coming into them.  This often floats over the salt water and is a fine place for you e.coli to breed.  If there is little or no flow of water, all the stuff pumped out will sink to the bottom of the harbour and there will probably be too much of it for the local flora and fauna to deal with.  In addition, if you are anchored in a popular spot, you don't want to pump out your toilet in an area where people are swimming.  The way round this is a holding tank, which you empty at a dedicated place in a marina or yacht harbour, or which you take out to sea and empty away from beaches, anchorages etc.

But sea toilets themselves are not without their issues.  In order for them to work effectively, they need to be able to pump in plenty of sea water, but all too often these pumps leak.  Not a lot, but a little water in an otherwise dry boat goes a long way, and the salt means that it's always damp in the area.  In addition, there are often valves to turn on and off, which non-sailors find disconcerting to downright worrying.  The most effective of the marine toilets I've dealt with is the Lavac, which only requires one to shut the lid and then pump, following simple instructions displayed on the bulkhead.  But even this paragon requires that you have two holes through the boat in order for it to work.  I happen to have a prejudice about holes under the waterline.  They have to be protected by a skin fitting that allows you to seal off the hole should the pipe leading to them fracture for some reason.  In theory, this could happen at any time and ideally one would shut all these sea-cocks off every time one leaves the boat.  Most people don't of course, because they fail very rarely.  But I know of more than one boat that has been lost because something failed between the hole and whatever the pipe led to.  In an ideal world, I wouldn't have holes under the waterline.

One can live with these niggles and worries, and most boats are bought with a sea toilet already fitted and the owners live with them.  When I bought Fantail she had a standard marine toilet, and a very indifferent holding tank.  One of my first jobs was to replace this with something a bit better and by and large things were OK.  However, the pump always dribbled sea water with the result that black mould would start growing the moment I turned my back.  I was getting increasingly irritated with this, but what finally destroyed any empathy I had for this system, was as a result from my moving from the cold waters of Tasman Bay to the warm waters of Northland.  Apparently the long, dark, inlet pipe was an ideal environment for something (I'm not sure what) to grow very happily.  But whatever it was, it liked a certain level of salt water, no more and no less, so when I stayed in a river for a while, it would grow and flourish, only to die when I went back to sea.  Then its salt water equivalent would grow and flourish only to die when I went back into a river.  How do I know?  Because each time I changed my environment, a couple of days later, the water coming into the heads would stink of sulphur and this appalling stench would last for a day or so, until all the dead matter was flushed through.  I got to the stage of dreading the change in water salinity.

I used to live with a Porta Potti, but they are heavy when full, and I didn't really relish the thought of struggling with one through the very narrow passageway into my heads compartment.  I decided to try out a composting toilet: a lot of friends have them and all spoke very positively about them.  I thought of making one, but realised that they need to be quite carefully set up for the female anatomy and I didn't really want to make one only to find it didn't quite work.  So in the end, I cashed in my savings and bought a C-Head.  These are made on a one-off basis by a chap called Sandy Graves in Florida.  It's not strictly correct to call them composting toilets: they are in fact, desiccators and to that end solids and liquids are separated.

Sandy has a variety of shapes and sizes and after we'd emailed back and forth, I decided which I wanted and it duly arrived.  It took me a while to get used to it: the dried coir bricks had to be reconstituted with water, and ended up too wet to do their job properly.  I then tried wood shavings, but found that the hardwood didn't do a very good job of absorbing moisture either.  I was seriously contemplating installing a fan to assist, although this was something I very much wished to avoid.  However, a bag of softwood shavings worked like a charm and instead of adding more medium almost every time I used the toilet, I found it stayed dry for ages.  Now that I have found the ideal medium, I am delighted with my 'composting' heads.  It is easy to empty out at sea; alternatively, you can put the solid waste into a stout bin liner, pour over half a cup of bleach and dump it ashore.  I much prefer to wait until I'm outside the 'no dumping' limits.  The website has several different ideas as to what you can use for a medium: I guess it's essentially trial and error until you find what works for you. The bottle can simply be emptied over the side, rinsed out and put back in place.

So that's two fewer holes under my boat; a toilet compartment that is easy to keep nice and clean and no smell.  I can only recommend this as a much better alternative to a conventional marine toilet.

Where can I buy a junk-rigged boat?

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I recently had a comment from someone called James, in USA.  He asked "Where do I start looking for a small boat that is junk-rigged in the U.S.? Have searched the Internet and have found only one boat in the U.S. And it was 36'."

This reminded me of something that I've heard said so many times by people debating re-rigging their existing boat with junk rig.  "What happens if I want to sell the boat?  Won't putting a junk rig on it make it more difficult?"

My usual response is to ask them why they are fitting the junk rig in the first place and generally they say because they couldn't find a boat already converted that would suit them.  Well, doesn't that answer the question for them?  There are lots of people looking for junk-rigged boats and there aren't many for sale.  Of course, if you happen to be in a country with a very restricted market, with a boat that is unlikely to be easy to sell anyway, having a junk rig may not necessarily swing the deal, but most of the people I know who have wanted to sell a junk-rigged boat have moved them along pretty quickly.

And to James, and other people who would like to buy a junk-rigged boat, I recommend you visiting the Junk Rig Association website, where there is a Swop, Sell or Buy forum that members use to list (and look for) boats.  And if you are thinking you'd like to buy a boat to sail distant climes, why not make it easy for yourself and buy one that's overseas to start with?!


Just think of the joy of owning something as delightful as one of these:










'Mariposa' needs to go sailing!

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My last post was about the difficulty of finding a junk-rigged boat when you wnat one.  This one is about the fact that there is a beautiful little Contessa 26 looking for a home.  She has been owned for short periods of time by several people in the recent past.  One decided that buying a boat in the UK when he lived in NZ was perhaps not the wisest of decisions.  The second one did heaps of good work on the boat, having found some structural defects; she is now apparently in great shape and probably better than new.  He was about ready to do the finishing touches when he was offered work now in China.  The most recent owner finished off all the little jobs needed to get the boat sailing and then realised that his money wasn't going to go as far as he hoped and that getting work in Europe was easier said than done, so had to go back home to Oz to earn some more money.  Poor wee boat - aspirational and competent owners, but no-one to take her sailing.

Of course, at 26ft, she isn't even considered 'entry level', for most people, and without an inboard engine, she is dismissed out of hand by nearly everyone.  But I keep hearing about young, adventurous people desperate for an opportunity to Achieve Something.  For £5,500 someone can buy an adventure ready to go: put some food on board, fill up the water, pull up the sail and there you are.  Come on - there must be somebody out there who will grab this opportunity!

Why Fantail won't be at this year's Tall Ships Regatta

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A couple of days ago, this flyer came in the post:

For all the junkies in NZ, the Tall Ships Regatta has become part of our life and is our major junket.  It's the greatest fun and I'd make a huge effort not to miss it, but this year, Fantail won't be taking part.  Why?  Because in a moment of madness, I've decided to build myself a replacement boat.  It's a long story, and it will take far too long for me to write it all up here, but it's largely to do with shoal draught, simplicity and and abiding love of wooden boats.  The whole saga can be read here, on the Junk Rig Association website.

Suffice it to say, that she will be 26 ft long, shoal draught and, of course, junk rigged.
















My friend David Tyler and I have combined forces on the design: he's done the clever bits on the computer and I have told him what I want and how I want it.  It's taken some thrashing out at times, but I'm very happy with what we've come up with.























David sailed down from Canada, in August, to help me get the project started.  After a lot more debating, we sorted out the details and then built a model to help finalise dimensions.  We are building the boat for me, so instead of postulating a crew of three or four 6ft people, we are working around one, 5ft 1in woman.  This has meant that some things, such as the cockpit, are non-standard.

















I have made my photos on the JRA site available to non members, so if you want to see more, have a look here.

Building a boat is a very full-time job, especially with all the other chores that have to be carried out on a daily basis, so I won't get much time to post on this blog.

And of course, it means that poor little Fantail will need a new home.  Anyone with NZ$23,000 in their pocket who would like my lovely little floating home, please contact me!

The SibLim Club

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As you can imagine, building a boat is a pretty time-consuming operation, so that I don't have much opportunity for blogging.  However, anyone who is interested can follow progress on the Junk Rig Association website.  Progress is not particularly fast, but is extremely enjoyable.

One of the very rewarding and rather unexpected aspects of this build, is how many people want to get involved in one way or another.  It really seems to have caught their imagination and I enjoy how people want to share in the progress of SibLim.  First of all, of course, was David Tyler, who was inspired by my ideas to create a wonderful design to my criteria.  Then came Marcus, who not only let me take over his shed, but has allowed me to make use of his machine tools, none of which I could have afforded to buy. Because he is so sensitised to epoxy, at this stage he can offer very little in the way of hands-on work, but his advice (he's a professional boatbuilder) and insights are invaluable, and he helps out in many other ways.

A week ago, the amazing Grand Pha sailed into the Hatea River and anchored off Norsand Boatyard, where I'm building SibLim.  In short order, Bertrand was changed into his old clothes and had taken on the exacting task of notching bulkheads for the chine log. 



At this time I decided that we now have quite a cohort, and so The SibLim Club was founded and now had three members.

A couple of days ago, I had a visit from my friend, the designer John Welsford, who is also very interested in the project - in spite of not having designed the boat!

He arrived with delicious bread and cheese (relieving me of the necessity of preparing lunch, and, having given me a (much-needed) lesson in how to handle a chisel became the fourth member of the Club.  I dare say I shall have to design and make burgees to give to all members at the end of the build!

I sometimes worry that I've bitten off more than I can chew, taking on this task: the fact that friends are there to help and encourage me makes me feel less daunted and more confident about the undertaking.  Thanks to the SibLim Club, I now don't think I'll ever be at a loss when an extra pair of hands is required, or I am in need of some sound advice.








SibLim update

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Every week, I try to post new photographs in my 'albums' on the Junk Rig Association's website. The outfit that hosts our site seems to keep moving the goal posts and what works one month, doesn't work the next.  The last few times I've uploaded photos to said albums, they've appeared in a totally random fashion.  One of my fellow members has suggested a way round this, but the whole thing takes forever, anyway, and I'm simply not prepared to delete all the photos and reload them.  Life is too short - especially when you are building a boat!  So for those of you who have tried to follow progress via the JRA, my apologies.

I didn't write about the wonderful Russell Boating Club's Tall Ships Regatta, that has also become the major junket for the NZ 'chapter' of the JRA.  Suffice it to say that it was excellent.  I only attended for a couple of days - being a busy boatbuilder - and the weather on the evening that I arrived was dire, but I enjoyed the whole event tremendously.  The bad weather had prevented our newest member of the fleet, Blondie from sailing up there (I hope to have some photos of her to show you some time), and Fantail's new owner (did I mention that I'd sold her?) had yet to take her over; neither La Chica nor Shoestring could make it, but we had quite a fleet for all that: Arcadian and Footprints from NZ, Tystie and Zebedee, who despite wearing the red ensign are almost Kiwi boats and Lakatao and Grand PHA from France, each on an extended voyage.  The latter I've already mentioned - Bertrand is a member of the SibLim Club - but I fell madly in love with Lakatao, which, while a Western design (Le Forrestiere) has many characteristics of a Chinese junk:



















Her owners, Bruno and Elise are wonderful people and there is always laughter on board.  I found her incredibly inspirational for my own build, although I will never attain the craftsmanship of Bruno.

Back to Whangarei and my boatbuilding.  Because not everyone will want to follow my JRA links, I thought I'd just post a few photos here, so that anyone interested can follow my (glacial) progress.  The good news is that the money is holding out and I always knew that this project would take a long time, regardless of the other people who reckoned I should be able to 'knock it over' in a year.  I'm really enjoying the process, and that's the main thing.


At the end of December, the Icebreakers came along and fitted the skegs, thus earning membership of the SibLim Club.




Because of the junk bow, which is flat rather than pointy, the planking is put on starting with the bottom and I got into this, early in January.  Aft, I could use 12 mm plywood, but forward, where the bottom rolls into the bow, I had to use 6 mm because of the extreme curve.  On this photo a piece is laid out, ready to fit.


Before any further planking could be done, however, it was necessary to install longitudinals: a chine log, stringer and sheer clamp on each side.  These were laminated where necessary, in order to bend the wood to the curves of the hull.  The Alaskan Yellow Cedar that I buy comes in lengths of around 4 m, so once these were sawn and planed, they had to be scarphed together, as in the photo above.   WEST epoxy is my glue of choice, largely because I know it and can anticipate how it works.  I've tried other brands in the past but never got on with them as well. A lot of February was spent joining and fitting all these pieces of wood.



















Come March and planking was in sight, but first I had to fit the sheer clamps.  SibLim is going to have davits and David designed them to be part of the main structure of the boat, running out from the sheer clamp.  I felt that these needed to be made from hardwood, rather than Alaskan yellow cedar and my friend, Marcus, contributed a variety of boards that he had stored away.  They varied from iroko to purpleheart.  I would be almost tempted to varnish them, just for their interesting colours!























So here we are in April, and the boat is starting to take shape.  It's really exciting to see what she looks like.  My little camera has quite a wide angle lens, which somewhat distorts the appearance of the hull.  In fact it's rather less beamy aft than it looks in this photo: indeed it's rather 'cod's head, mackerel tail' in appearance, which I very much like.

I never thought I'd find myself building another boat.  I most certainly never thought I'd find myself building another boat on my own, although to be perfectly honest, without good friends lending me a hand at certain critical moments, I don't think I could.  However, in essence I'm building this boat by myself and I have to say it's an incredibly satisfying process.  I'm not a clever woodworker: indeed I'm barely competent, but thanks to wonderful epoxy (yes, I know it's very toxic), good advice and the tendency of 12 mm plywood to fair out any wobbles, my boat seems to be pretty sound so far.  Because I know I will remember every bodge, every short cut, every 'she'll be right' moment, I am doing the best work I can and, thus far, I think I will be able to trust it.  Oddly enough, my greatest (irrational) concern is that there are no fastenings.  Badger had no fastenings and relied entirely on glue, and to the best of my knowledge and belief is still in one piece, so I'm not sure where this worry comes from.  I can actually see myself, one dark night, rushing round with drill and screws, shoving in fastenings left, right and centre, just before I put the glass and epoxy on the hull!

Another Update on SibLim

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I thought it's about time I posted a few more photos of progress.  As usual, there are some pics on the Junk Rig Association website.  I've had lots of visitors to the boat shed, who all make very kind comments about how quickly the boat is progressing.  I wish!  However, I never expected it to be a fast process and am pleased with what I've achieved.  My friend Rob, was absolutely invaluable in helping with the bilge panels - sheets of 12mm plywood are a handful for a small person to handle, but has had to leave to go back to Europe. he has been a great member of the SibLim Club.

Another visitor was John Welsford, back from a trip to Chile.  He came to check up on progress and brought me a wonderful present: a Bailey No 3 plane, which he rebuilt from parts.  This is narrower than most planes, which reduces its weight and, as John pointed out, fits my small hand more readily.  It's a delightful tool, but apparently they are not made any more.  Sad.  Many thanks, John.


















While I'm working away, particularly when doing rather monotonous tasks like sanding and scraping, my mind is occupied with all sorts of thoughts. One is that I still haven't found a good name for this boat: SibLim (Small Is Beautiful, Less Is More) is a great name for the design, but isn't what I want for my (I hope) beautiful boat.  I'm  afraid I'm a bit of a romantic when it comes to boat names, and don't really like 'clever' ones, or puns - unless they are particularly subtle.  I don't want to call her after an animal again; nor do I want a girl's name, nor a star, nor a character from mythology.  It's all very difficult.

Below is a photo progress report:


With the temporary bulkhead removed, I can see the saloon panelling.

The scarphs land where they land, although it would be nice if they ended up on the bulkhead!




Additional framing around the bilgeboard panels.  This area will be sealed off, so I need to ensure that all the wood is thoroughly coated.  I will undoubtedly fit an access hatch, however, so that I can be sure there is nothing untoward going on.


I'm rather pleased with this scarph!



Planked up!

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It's about six weeks since I last wrote - time is a precious commodity when building a boat on your own, especially when you are as slow as I am.  If you want to see what's happening more regularly, I try to update weekly on the Junk Rig Association Technical Forum under various headings.  The latest info can be found here.

Anyway, here is a 'photo essay' of the past few week's work.

As time went by, it became increasingly difficult to find anything to clamp to.  The bilge board cases were a useful exception to this rule!

The plywood on the bilge panels, overlapped the bottom of the boat.  It was getting a bit difficult to line the next one up, as I got further forward, so I got out the power planer and trimmed the surplus wood back.  This machine scares the wits out of me - it's so easy to cause serious damage with it, but I'm getting a little more confident with it.

I decided to fit the panels outboard of the bilge board cases separately.  After all, it was framed all round, so they would be well secured.  Shaping a partial scarph was tricky, but I've been lent a beautiful chisel which helped me get it accurate.

Most of the bilge board case is now closed in.  Underneath the piece under the clamp there is a completely enclosed space, with, presently, no access.  In theory, there is no need ever to access this space: all the plywood and cedar are heavily coated with epoxy resin, but I will probably fit a small hatch, just so that I can check that nothing untoward is going on.

Towards the bow there is too much shape to plank up with 12mm panels.  The 6mm that I used are almost full sheets - 1200 x 2500mm - and a bit of a handful.  But at least they are not particularly heavy, unlike the 12mm, which are really at my limits for lugging about.  A sheet of plywood, on edge, comes up to my shoulders, so lifting them around can be a problem.  Even the 6mm was a real pain to fit - on, off, on, off - so it was a relief to find that I could use the piece from one side as a pattern for the other.  I'm actually rather proud of this because it means the hull is symmetrical.


This was a particularly tricky sheet to fit on my own.  I used Bruno's pegs to locate it along the bottom and put a couple of clamps on the bulkheads to rest it on, until I could climb up onto a saw horse and get a couple of screws in.


Here is the first sheet of 6mm plywood fitted.  It is notched about two-thirds of the way along.  This is because as the chine flattens, the scarph would end up excessively wide where it meets the side panel.  Marcus, from the SibLim Club - a qualified boatbuilder - helped me with this part of the job.  He did in 3 hours what would probably have taken me 3 weeks - and undoubtedly did it a lot better, too.

Here I am precoating the plywood, before fitting the next sheet of plywood.  You can clearly see the inside of the sleeping cabin here. 

This is the photo of the forward end of the sleeping cabin.  I love the appearance of the kauri panelling. 

Shaping the final piece of plywood to fit at the bow.  I have bought a couple of Japanese pull saws and find them a lot easier to use than Western style.  They are so fast that I often use one instead of a jigsaw.  The one in the photo has a wonderfully flexible blade which also allows me to use it along curves, too.  When I use a jigsaw, I invariably have to plane the wood afterwards, but not with one of these hand saws.

This photo is taken with the camera lying back down on the strong back, looking up into the bow.  This will, of course, be the bottom when the boat is right side up.  I cleaned it up as well as I could, but once the boat is turned over, I shall pour epoxy thickened with high-density filler, into the very bottom of the boat to seal any voids and leave a smooth surface.  This very forward section of the bow will be empty.  Again, I shall probably fit an access hatch so that I can check that there are no issues over the years.

I had hoped to staple the two layers of 6mm ply together, but when I attempted to fit them, the twist of the bow was forcing the middle of the sheet away from the one below.  In the end, I had to screw from the middle diagonally up and down to get it flat.  The boat looks like a sieve and, very disappointingly, the screw points have gone through the coating on the inside.  Once she's turned over, it will have to be sanded and coated again.  However, there was not alternative solution and at least I'm sure the two sheets of ply are securely joined.

For once the gods smiled and the offcut from the full sheet fitted - just - the triangle left at the top.  By now I'd given up worrying about holes through the inside layer!

I am getting a lot better about using my power plane: here I'm making the scarph on the final sheet of 6 mm plywood.  The trouble with being an apprentice boatbuilder is by the time you are comfortable with a new skill, you don't need it any more!  (Although I dare say there will be one or two scarphs in the deck.)

The two final bow pieces: one precoated.  Precoating the plywood before putting the thickened epoxy on it might seem painfully pedantic, but the okoume (gaboon) plywood sometimes soaks up epoxy like blotting paper.  I'd rather waste some from drips than spend the rest of my life worrying that there are areas where there was insufficient glue to make a good bond.

And there we are: one completely closed-in hull.  I am very proud of what I have achieved and very pleased that it looks so symmetrical.  I just love that junk bow!

One of the reasons that I wanted to avoid screws was because all those holes need filling.  When the plywood is horizontal, it's not too much of an issue: you can make a fairly soft mix and force it in to the hole, but on a steep slope it's more difficult.  Too soft and it will drain out, too thick and it may not get to the bottom of the holes.  In the end I decided to use wooden pegs - trunells - and found large matches to be ideal.  As they are square in section, air can escape while you tap them in.  Dip in a thin slurry of epoxy and microfibres and stick them in the holes.  One swipe of my little saw knocks them off once the glue is cured.  I intended to recycle them, but the bits of glue still stuck on got in the way and even I can afford another box of matches!!

This is a photo as at yesterday.  You can see that all the overhanging ply has been trimmed off and I am longboarding the chines to get them sharp and fair.  Then they will be rounded over, ready for bi-axial glass tape, before the whole hull is faired.


In the meantime, the keel has been taking shape.  It consists of three layers of 50mm steel.  It is a special alloy, used for bridges and decorative steelwork, with additives to reduce corrosion.  Supposedly it is guaranteed for 50 years!  Long enough for me.  Murray Wilkinson, who owns Norsand, where I'm building SibLim, arranged to purchase the steel and then, even more obligingly, organised getting them cut to shape. 

The pieces of steel returned from being cut.  One of them has a distinct twist in the tail.

My friend Marcus wanted to make the pattern for the forward end of the keel, having very strong opinions as to how it should be shaped!  He thicknessed pine to the same depth as the steel, glued it up and then screwed the three layers together.  He then carefully shaped it all as one piece.  Once he was happy with it, it was unscrewed and handed to Kevin and Anton as a pattern.  It will also be used for me to help shape the deadwood along the bottom of the boat, to which the keel will be attached.

Anton picked up the steel and drove it around to the half round workshop where it was to be shaped.

It was tacked together and then Anton went to work shaping the bow, with Kevin checking that all the details were to his satisfaction.

Anton applied heat about a metre away from the after end of the twisted piece and cajoled it into place.  I hate working with metal, myself, but have a huge amount of admiration for people who can get big chunks of the stuff to do their bidding!

As you can see, the three pieces are now in perfect alignment.

The forward end was shaped carefully and Anton came back and marked again for a final finish.  More careful work with the grinder produced a smooth and fair leading edge.

A big hollow in the middle layer of the side had been worked over: a bit of filling with weld and a lot of grinding removed it altogether.   



A SibLim Update

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It's fully three months since I've posted.  Those who are frustrated by my lack of updates here, can find more recent postings on the Junk Rig Association website here.  I try to post there once a week, 'try' being the operative word.

Anyway, stand by for a l-o-n-g post with heaps of photographs.

Last time I wrote, I was still planking up the hull.  This gave me a fair share of grief around the bow, but I'm pleased to say I got it sorted out in the end:


20 July - I rejoiced somewhat prematurely. Preparing the hull for glassing, I noticed several voids behind the 2nd layer 6mm. The shape is just too compound for such a big piece of ply.

 
               
I routed out the worst of the plywood and then drilled several rows of 8mm holes, 1.5 diagonally below. Injected resin, filling the holes as they overflowed with dowels and toothpicks!  The replaced pieces of ply. All seems very sound and solid now, but it cost me the best part of a week. (I faffed around for a day, deciding what approach to take to solve the problem.)
























22 Jul I don't want metal fastenings in the boat, but like the idea of 'mechanically' fastening the hull to the stringers and bulkheads (and plywood to itself), so have put dowels at 30cm intervals).





















SibLim the pincushion. I dare say the dowels are illogical, but the advantage of being a woman boatbuilder is that everyone knows women are illogical. It makes me feel happier anyway.

In the meantime, I was getting the keel ready.  While the following photos are not in strict chronological order, they show what was required.














14 September.  Once I started building the deadwood, I decided it was time to get the keel sand-blasted.  As soon as that was done, I took my WEST epoxy along and coated it.






















I was surprised at its appearance: I expected it to be silver and shiny; in fact it looked as though it had been sprayed with a grey primer.


  







 




Because the boat will dry out often, and the steel is corrosion resistant anyway, I decided not to bother getting the bottom blasted. Any coating would just get scraped off.
 














I had perfect conditions. A warm, dry day following a chilly night, so the metal was cold, which stopped the epoxy kicking off too quickly. I could get away with fast hardener.


  














 
 
 
 
 
 
 The epoxy brushed on perfectly. The sand-blaster operator kindly let me leave it there overnight to harden.
 



















15 September. When Kevin brought the keel back, he asked if I'd in fact asked the people to spray paint it. "No, I did it with a 2 inch brush!"
 























WEST Epoxy's magical self-levelling properties.

Anyway, the next stage was to get the hull ready to be turned over and attached to the keel.



















Meanwhile, back in the the shed, I carried on preparing the hull.  27 July.  After trimming all the plywood, I planed and sanded the chines, and then coated them with neat epoxy, so that when I come to glass, the end grain won't soak up all the epoxy.























1 August.  I tried to get the chine as fair as possible, although once the boat is afloat, I doubt anyone will even notice.























8 August.  All the chines now have glass tape along them, which means that they will end up with two layers of glass.

People appeared to be surprised that I was willing to tackle glassing the hull entirely on my own, but in fact it was one of the few aspects of building the boat that didn't frighten me half to death.  Over the years I have epoxied what seems like acres of fibreglass to plywood!

  





















13 August.  The first piece of glass goes on the bow.

  
















Sometimes, I wish the glass weren't transparent. Here you can easily see where I had to remove plywood and re-plank.

  





















14 August. The bottom has been glassed and that on the bow is just visible. 




















17 August.  I actually rather enjoyed doing this job - probably because I felt in control! Here I am about half way along the starboard bilge panel.
 
 


 


   














18 August. My method was to smooth the cut cloth over the plywood and then climb onto the bottom of the boat and tip epoxy along the top of the glass. I used a plastic spreader to get an even coating.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
24 August. Glassing the topsides was more tricky and I used a roller to wet out the cloth, following up with the plastic spreader. Rollers are a pain because they soak up epoxy, which quickly sets and before very long I abandoned them for a brush.  This worked perfectly well, anyway.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
30 August. All the glass received an additional two coats of resin. I would coat the previous day's work before putting new glass on.
Glassing the transoms. I'm leaving the lute, for the moment. It will be easier to do when the boat is the right way up.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Having gone to all the trouble of carefully coating the glassed hull, I now have to flatten it all off to prepare for Coppercoat on the bottom and undercoat on the sides.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
4 September.   The sanding is coming on. I could put gloss paint directly on the topsides, but the sun shines on the forward end of the boat, so I will put on undercoat to protect the epoxy.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5 September. Marcus helped me mark the shape for the deadwood. He's much better at standing on a slippery slope than I am!
 
















If the hull is going to sit nicely on the keel, then I have to be sure that the deadwood is truly horizontal.
 
















6 September. It took two of us to mark the bottom of the boat: I stood on a ladder and checked the square was vertical while Marcus made a mark.

















We used the 'nose' pattern made for the keel, to mark to where the deadwood will extend.
 
















7 September.  I bought a load of saligna (Queensland blue gum) for the deadwood.  It all had to be thicknessed and is rock hard.  The planer decided it didn't like it and I sent it in for repair.
 





















10 September.  I'd spent two days on the thicknesser before it died.  I took the wood to the yard workshop to finish the thicknessing, and they did the job in half an hour!  The next job was to lay it on the pattern and mark out the individual pieces before cutting them to shape. 






















After cutting the bevel on the bandsaw, I used the pattern to mark the shape of the various pieces.
 





















11 September. I've been lent a big bandsaw by Karl - thanks, Karl.  Heaven knows how I'd have sawn up the wood without it. 






















The pieces were getting pretty long as the keel built up.  Because the saligna is so heavy and hard to handle - and tends to be a bit warped, too, I made the later layers from shorter lengths.






















12 September.  Building up the deadwood.  Marking, shaping, cutting and then fitting the wood so that everything is true is a slow business.

















15 September.  Final shaping takes place on the boat, after each piece is glued in place.  No doubt there will be a big fairing job when it's completed.

















 16 September.  The big bandsaw copes well with the saligna, but both planer and saw lose their edge quickly on this timber.  It was still a good buy, but maybe not quite as cheap as it seemed at the time! 


















The deadwood took ages because the saligna is so hard: it also contains silica and gums up the blade.  All in all, it's not the easiest wood to work, but some of it looks really rather lovely when it's all planed up.  Cutting scarphs in the 150mm planks would be a big cut on any piece of wood: by the time the bandsaw has cut half a dozen pieces of the saligna, the blade needs changing!

















22 September - the wood rasp is a favoured tool for the amateur woodworker. It enables accurate reshaping with a minimum skill level.
 
















Slowly but steadily the stack is building up.
 
















The thicknesser that I had been using has been pronounced beyond economic repair, so a new one had to be purchased. Second hand ones are rare and expensive.  I hope to sell it at the end of the project and as it comes with a 36 month guarantee, it should still be an attractive proposition. 

















25 September: 'just' one more layer to put on the deadwood.























27 September - adding more layers to the deadwood.  Full length, now.
 





















The glued wood is ready for the final smoothing and shaping.

















28 September - Marcus uses his pattern once again, to shape the forward end of the deadwood.

















29 September - the final shape.

 















Deadwood ready for glassing.

















29 September - the final stack of deadwood, at the after end.


















30 September - the front of the deadwood, glassed and ready for trimming.























1 October - drilling the longest keel bolt, right aft. The bolts are 16mm threaded rod set into the keel. The holes are 25mm and they are oversize so that they can be filled with epoxy, thickened with silica and high-density filler.  The keel is effectively glued to the hull and the keelbolts don't have to do a lot of work.  I used 316 stainless steel: this isn't generally considered good practice, but as there should be no moisture at all around the keel bolts, there should be no problem.  I should be able to remove the occasional keel bolt to check for corrosion, even if the boat is afloat, should I want to.






















This last bolt is a long one!

















The hole for the keelbolt through one of the floors.






















The final job was to fill in all the screw holes left over from gluing up the laminates.

I started actually building the hull on 9th September 2015 and had very much hoped to have it turned over in a year.  (Some people thought that I should have had the boat finished in a year: I was not one of them.  If I finish it in 2 years, I shall be astonished, if I finish it in 3 years, I'll be satisfied.)  From the start, I've been determined not to put pressure on myself and setting myself this target proved the wisdom of my original decision.  The more I realised that the hull was not going to be turned over when I'd hoped, the more stressed I became about the rate of progress.  Generally, when people ask me when I'm going to launch, I reply 'The fifth'.  I should have said 'this year' for the turn over.  However, finally I was ready and the good guys at Norsand Boatyard pulled out all the stops to help me, even though they had plenty of other people clamouring for their time.

In order to make their life easier (and to reduce my final bill), my friend Marcus and I jacked up the boat to over 800mm, which would allow the trailer wheels to go under the beams sticking out at either end of the strongback.




2 October - jacking the hull up.

The strongback lived up to its name, and we moved it up in increments, ensuring that the hull didn't get tilted too much in the process.  Occasionally there was a light creak of protest, but generally it didn't seem to be under too much of a strain.

We used jacks, borrowed from the yard with lots of big lumps of wood to support the beams.

Finally, we were happy with the height

And propped the hull up with a couple of temporary supports.

















3rd October.  The trailer was brought round and Kevin look very relieved that we had given its wheels sufficient clearance.

















Slowly he manoeuvred it under the strongback - a tricky job with large machines and little clearance.

















Once the trailer was in place, the large wheels could be removed and smaller ones substituted, so that the strongback and hull could be lowered onto the trailer itself.

















With everything in place, the big wheels had to go back on again.  Normally hydraulics do this, but they were disabled for maintenance.






















It's a bit of a nerve-wracking business, if you're not used to using jacks, but the slipway team are nothing if not professional.

















Then Kevin moved the keel round, positioning it next to where the hull would be, so that the crane could move it the following day.
 
















The keel was placed on a big steel beam and a hefty wooden one, placed on crib blocks.  The plan is for these to be used under the boat as I continue to fit it out.

















The hull was then moved round and the strongback lowered on to crib blocks.
 
















 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
And then the hull was ready to be turned over, waiting overnight for the crane.
 
















4 October - It had rained overnight and I was worried that the keel wouldn't dry out in time. Fortunately when the crane arrived at 0945, the sun had come out.  It looked awfully small for turning the hull over.

















My job was to spread epoxy thickened with silica and high density filler on the keel. It kept me fully occupied. Just as well: watching a year's work dangling in the air was terrifying! 

















The strops were attached to the crane and then pulled under the hull.

















Then the jib was boomed out, lowered and the strops attached from the other side.
 
















Two hooks were being used for this operation, so that the hull could be rolled over. Now the second one was hauled up to take the load.

















Slowly the hull was lifted up. Neighbouring boatie, John, was asked to take photos: I was too busy mixing epoxy. Thanks, John.


 














With the boat not far above the strongback, the crane driver started manoeuvring his hooks so that the strops were alternately slackened and tightened. The hull started to roll over.

















Tony, refitting a boat in the next shed, came to join in the fun. It was mercifully calm, but he was interested to note how easily the swinging about of the hull could be controlled with just one hand.

















Then the hull was nearly on its side. 

















In a few moments, the hull was past the half way point.

















The slings were crossing the deadwood, so it was necessary to put the hull down on a couple of blocks of wood, so that they could be moved.

















As the hull levelled out, it settled on the deadwood.

















The hull sat happily while the strops were taken out.

















Tony and Marcus decided some props should be put under the bilge panel, but they proved unnecessary and, in fact, fell out.

















Tony with another prop.

















'Come ON!" The strops are back in place, adjusted and the hull waits to be placed on the keel. I am still frantically spreading epoxy. The whole business took very little time. 

  















With the glue finally spread, the hull was swung over the keel. About 725 kg, Gary reckoned, which is what I'd estimated.

















The aftermost keel bolt is the longest and it was very easy to locate the keel over this so that the rest would line up. 

















The other holes line up in a most satisfactory manner. (But it must be said that one advantage of the Gougeon Bros method is that the holes are over size!)
 
 















The glue oozed out in most places as planned. One or two gaps that were showing, filled up when I poured epoxy into the holes around the keel bolts.

















Less than 45 minutes after the crane arrived, I was cleaning up excess epoxy from the keel. 

















Gary let go the strops, tidied everything away and was ready to leave before I'd even finished scraping up.  Who would have thought something that had caused me so much worry would be such a quick, easy and painless operation?  (All right, I know ... most people!)

I climbed on board and had a gloat.  Then I wandered around looking at my creation from all angles.  Then I noticed dark clouds rapidly approaching ... So my intention to take lots of photos of the hull the right side up was thwarted by the necessity to get a cover over the hull as quickly as possible.



And it was as well we did, because the rain soon came.






















5 October.  I was delighted when Kevin made the effort, the following day, to fit me in so that SibLim could go back in the shed.  Despite the cover, some rain had already got inside the hull and although it would dry out soon enough, I didn't really want water filling up the places that hadn't been finally sealed.
 
















As ever, Kevin went to a huge amount of trouble to ensure that everything was as it should be.  I shall, however, try to remember to check regularly, that the boat hasn't settled unevenly, over the next few months.






















With only Marcus and me to help, I didn't have much time to take photos, but it was a replay of Tuesday, in reverse.
 
















With a frame to support the stern, the hull could be left with the minimum of propping, which will make it much easier for painting, fitting the rubbing strakes, etc.

 
Then I threw a party: all those who have shown interest in the building of SibLim were invited. There was heaps to eat and drink and a lot of great people to help celebrate.

Then it was back to work.  I decided to work from fore to aft, checking that all the woodwork is properly coated with epoxy.  Then I need to put filled epoxy along all the stringers and alongside the chine logs.  There is nothing like longitudinal pieces of wood to provide crevices for damp and dirt to lurk.  Tedious work, but it will give me time to get a sense of the boat's interior and how the accommodation is going to work.

















11 October.  One of the first jobs I did was roughly to cut out the excess bow. There will be two bow rollers - one for anchoring and one, generally, for mooring - well apart from each other.  The anchor roller will have a chain pawl, which makes it awkward to take the anchor off.  With this method, I can use the second roller for the occasions when I pick up a mooring and, I hope, the anchor and mooring warp won't interfere with each other.
 





















This is a view down the centreline of the boat, from sitting perched up on the lute stern.  The panelled bulkhead is at the forward end of the saloon.

















12 October.  Where the bow met the bottom of the boat was very messy, as a result of the difficulties of bending the plywood, where the stringers and chine log met the bow, etc. I flooded where everything met with epoxy and fillers and sanded it all.  This photo shows the forward part of the forepeak under the foredeck.  The deck will seal all this area off entirely, so I'm concerned to ensure that it's all properly sealed.


















14 October.  I had to move from forepeak to sleeping cabin so that I could avoid damaging wet epoxy.  While I'm quite happy, by and large, with the scarphs, they still need filling and fairing.


















I filled where the wood was damaged and screw holes, filletted stringers and bulkheads, and put 3 more coats of resin on everything.  I worked from the port after section, which is why it's still not completed in this photo.  The after section is going to be the anchor locker, the floor of which will be at chine log level, self draining.  Again, the area underneath will be sealed, although I will probably incorporate access hatches.
 
All this filleting and sealing will take some time; I'm looking forward to starting on the accommodation. 

 

 

Starting the fitout

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As I have probably mentioned before, boat building is a rather time consuming task. I try to keep up with this blog, but by the time I've posted on the Junk Rig Association, website, I've usually run out of time to write on this blog.  I am hoping to do better this year, but as I probably won't, if you want to see the latest photos, I suggest you go here and look at my photo albums.

By the way, my apologies for the big gaps in the layout.  I saw them in the Preview and tried to correct them, but without success.  This is what comes of using free blog sites!

















Looking towards the saloon while sitting on the stern.






















A view down the centreline

















Where the bow met the bottom of the boat was very messy, as a result of the difficulties of bending the plywood, etc. I flooded where everything met with epoxy, thickened with high-density filler put fillets along the stringers and sanded it all.

 
















To make it easier to keep the boat clean, I'm filleting all the top surfaces of stringers. I'm also fairing the scarphs and filleting the plywood floors. Where the chine log meets the hull, there is a triangle especially designed to trap dirt. This area is also being filled with thickened epoxy, which has the additional advantage of increasing the gluing area.



















Forward of the bulkhead and under the anchor locker will be sealed off. I filled chips, and screw holes, filletted and put 3 more coats of resin on everything.It was quite a struggle to get right into the bottom of the most forward part of the boat, but I'm satisfied that everything is well coated.  Whether or not to put in access hatches was my big debate.  Some say that the space will be fine; others that the tiniest crack could let in moisture and then the whole bow will rot away and that okoume/gaboon is not a durable species of wood.  I decided not to fit the hatches: I can always do it at a later date.


Bird's-eye view of the after part of the hull showing bilgeboard cases, saloon/galley and cockpit. I am where the outboard motor will be fitted.



Once I turned the boat over, I got busy filleting and coating all the places that were hard to get to when it was the right way up.  

 
Leaning on the bridge deck. Or at least where it will be.






















Standing in the sleeping cabin





After due consideration, I decided to fair the keel, not so much for smooth water flow as to prevent there being any crevices for barnacles and the like to get a 'toe hold'.

















The plan was to put Coppercoat over the entire bilge panel up to the chine. The chine makes a natural place to paint to and while the final appearance will be unusual, I don't think this boat follows the norm that closely anyway.  Because the chine runs out at the bow, I epoxied some string in place to mark the 'waterline'. (In fact well above it.)



















I've bought two splendid bow rollers. Because of the shapes of my Manson Supreme anchor, and the junk bow, they need to be fitted on their own little 'bowsprits'.


















With my saligna came some unidentified (and very attractive) gum. Lighter in weight than the saligna it's perfect for this job. 

 















My unidentified gum was originally 'decking', as they call it here, ie to put on a verandah, porch or balcony.  Thicknessed to 15mm and with the tongues and grooves trimmed off it could be laminated into a substantial support for the bow rollers.

















Preparing the bow for the foredeck. Two lengths of hardwood will go from the bulkhead to the bow to carry the anchor rollers. Framing has been put along the plywood running fore and aft.

















The bulwarks will interfere with a fair lead to deck cleats, so I instead. I have chosen to fit mooring posts, as with traditional junks. The bow roller timbers are behind the pilularis I sawed up for these posts. 






















Getting to be a real pro boatbuilder: using an angle grinder to shape the end of the Samson post. Well, as they are quite dainty, maybe Delilah post would be a better name!

















The first Delilah post being shaped and the blank for the second one behind it. 

 




















After fitting the port post, I put a wedge-shaped piece between it and the bulwark. Not only does it make the post stronger, but the post now acts as a knee for the bulwark.
 
 














I'd been procrastinating on applying the Coppercoat as I'd been told it was heavy work, but once I'd got the job done, it meant that I could prop up the hull and remove the framework aft, that is supporting it.  (A job I still haven't done!).  All 5 coats have to be applied in one day.  This was obviously an impossibility on my own, so I divided the job into bow, bottom and keel; starboard bilge panel; port bilge panel.  Then I divided the allotted quantities of resin, hardener and copper into containers, ready to mix.

















The keel and bottom panel, which includes the bow, worked out at around 4 sq m - and as this should take one litre to cover, I divided the Coppercoat into five equal portions as in the previous photo. The first coat was very patchy and I suspect I was putting it on a bit too thinly. 






















I decided to take the copper right up the bow to bow roller level. I think it looks great. Maybe I'll burnish it to a high gloss!
















The following morning, the overall effect was satisfactory, although the finish is a bit patchy due to the uneven spread of copper on each roller stroke.  But you can no longer see where the wood joins the steel.
 
  












The next step was the starboard bilge panel: 2 litres. I thought I'd easily knock it over in a day, but it took until 2130! Fortunately, the work wasn't as heavy as I'd anticipated, but I was still pretty tired by the time I'd finished.  The first coat, again, didn't cover so well. 

















But the final result looks a lot better and the patchwork of plywood at the bow is thankfully, finally covered up.
















Those with a critical eye will notice a 'hard point' abaft the bilgeboard case, which shows now that the bilge panel is all one colour. The good news is that it won't often be seen. I took the Coppercoat up about 30cm into the cases.
 
 
 
 

















The 'bowsprits', it has to be said, do look a little strange from underneath. I hope they'll look better with the bow rollers fitted.

















I added extra framing along the centreline and worked out what had to be done before I could actually put plywood on the foredeck.

  















Another 12-hour day saw the Coppercoat finished. It's a bit patchy and has to be sanded with fine paper to burnish it.  If the burnishing doesn't improve it, it won't be noticed once it's turned green.
 
















Making a pattern for the foredeck plywood. The easiest way to fit it was in two pieces, joining at the bulkhead.

















December 1st.  Working late in the day, gluing in the Delilah posts.

  




















Delilah post in place. I was rather pleased at how squarely I'd drilled for the stainless steel rod.


  















Both posts glued into place. A couple of nice, big screws back up the glue.






















I put fillets around the posts.

















Coating the 'bowsprits'.
 
I made a 'cast' of epoxy before gluing down the 'bowsprits'.  Firstly, I lined out the space to catch drips. I know, I know - nobody's going to see ... 
 

All set up for gluing. You can see where I 'cast' epoxy right at the bow to ensure a good joint.

The 'bowsprits' glued into place. Excess glue was used to fill the screwholes left over from when I'd laminated them up.  
 

















I was especially careful about gluing down the foredeck plywood, because there would be no way of checking the glue job after the event.  With the space underneath being inaccessible, I needed to feel confident that there wouldn't be the slightest void.  Unsure that all the framing was perfectly level, I covered the back of the plywood with tape, put down a good layer of epoxy thickened with hi-density filler and made a plinth for the deck to land on. When the epoxy had cured, I lifted off the plywood and had a perfectly flat and fair surface to which to glue.


I bought a couple of bronze fittings from my friend, Gary, for the foredeck and made a pilularis bar to go between them. This will be the cleat I use when I pick up the occasional mooring.  Yes, it's big, but then, generally, so is the rope on most moorings.  Cleats are one of these things that I don't think are necessarily in proportion to a boat's LOA.
 
  















Ready to glue on the foredeck.


The foredeck down, with the space below a void. Some day I may cut out an inspection hatch in the bulkhead to check there is no moisture ingress.
 
















The base of the anchor locker has to land on the 'spine' and the sheer clamp. The former was too low, so I made a U-shaped fitting out of plywood to go on top, making it higher and thicker.  This gives better support to the floor of the anchor locker, which will often have to bear the weight of 30m 8mm chain a lot of nylon multiplait - and me.
 

 The framing along the after bulkhead was also too low, so I added some more cedar to raise it to the correct height.
 
  















A further frame was required across the forward bulkhead.

  















There was a bit of juggling required, because the longitudinal had to go in before the forward frame. I tend to do these things the in the wrong order, but fitting the wood had shown me what was needed.

















Then the excess glue was cleaned up and the screws given an extra half turn to ensure a close fit.
 
















The next stage was to make a pattern for the floor of the anchor locker, using strips of plywood and a hot glue gun. 

















It fitted amazingly well for me - I'm not that clever at getting things to fit and would be completely unable to construct a boat without epoxy - and I reckon can double up as an extra cabin!

















I coated and glassed the floor, then glued it in and filleted. I was sure I'd taken photos of the glassing, but obviously didn't. I put on two layers, because it will often be wet and will be chafed by grit and stones that come in with the anchor cable.
 
















I scavenged an old teak boarding platform and up the wood from it to use as a divider in the anchor locker. Two old pieces in the foreground.

  















The grating will be removable to make cleaning and repainting easier and to enable me to fit access hatches if necessary. First I drew it out full size.






















I've been given some treated kahikatea, which is a very light wood and am using this for framing.  Up until now, I've been using Alaskan Yellow Cedar, which is very durable.  Kahikatea is lovely to work with, but not at all durable.  However having been treated and well-coated with epoxy, I shouldn't have any problems with it.

















The runners ready for coating with epoxy.














In the meantime I got hold of a heap of quarter sawn teak decking for $640. Teak decks are great non-slip and require hardly any maintenance besides looking beautiful.  They were one of the things I loved most about Badger and although David Tyler, who designed SibLim, will have hysterics about it, (the weight!) I am so happy to be able to have teak decks again.

















Before painting out the anchor locker, drainage holes were made, which are to be coated with many layers of epoxy with graphite powder to protect it from the sun.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The assembled grating being fitted: the runners are temporarily held in place with heat gun glue. 

















Once the initial grating was assembled, I fitted end pieces and another piece along the middle. Easier said than done: the old wood was a bit distorted and didn't take to the idea of parallel. I ended up having to simply fill gaps with epoxy.

















Gluing up the grating.  I sandwiched the ends between hefty pieces of wood in an effort to force it straight.

















The runners glued in.

  















3rd January 2017  Happy New Year! I'm trying to make the boat low-maintenance, but have been dithering about what paint to use. I was assured that Hempels Bilge and Locker paint would cover well and be durable, so I decided to use this.  I remember bilge paint as being the sort of stuff that would cover everything with just one coat.  However, either my memory has let me down or this is no longer the case.

I duly applied one coat of the paint and could see right through.  A second coat was still terribly patchy.  What bit of 'high opacity' do modern paint manufacturers not understand?  Then it occurred to me that paint intended for bilges and lockers was probably devoid of UV inhibitors.  I checked the spec sheet and there was no mention of them.  So I looked for another product and the blurb said that the paint was a 'high opacity semi-gloss topcoat and primer. Durable with good resistance to sunlight, water and oil. Can be used as a complete coating system.'  This sounded like the go, so I bought some and put it on.  I could still see the wood underneath.  By now I'd lost patience and opened a can of International Brightside that I'd been given.  I applied a coat of this - nice gloss and finally the locker was properly coated.  But four coats of paint and essentially just to keep the sun from attacking the epoxy.  Going back to it a few days later, I realised just how soft oil paints are compared with nasty-to-apply polyurethane, and thinking about how this locker is going to have all water, grit and stones in it on a regular basis, decided that I'd made a mistake.  Ah well.  Too late now.  But the rest of the external paint is going to be polyurethane.  

















So I went out and bought some two-pack polyurethane varnish for the runners

















and the grating.  It went on beautifully

 




















and looks pretty smart, in place.  They eyebolt is for the bitter end of the anchor cable.


We designed the boat to have the mast in the tabernacle, and the tabernacle was going to be in a trunk, to lower the sail's height above deck.  However, I came to the conclusion that it was going to be more trouble than it's worth and am not that bothered if the boom is a metre above deck at the forward end.  It was the same height on Fantail, and just fine.  However, we had just butted the join in the plywood forming the cabin front, on the assumption it would be cut out, framed, etc, etc.  There is a school of thought that says plywood can be butted by cutting out a layer of wood at the butt and laminating glass on either side.  I reckoned that if I put another two layers of glass on it, this would do a more than adequate job, especially as there is 5mm of kauri on the other side of the butt.  The joint wasn't perfectly smooth, so I mixed up epoxy filler (with about half high-density filler to make it stronger) and then faired over the joint.  The next day I sanded it, taking care not to sand through the original layer of glass.

















The following day, I put on two layers of glass cloth, one after the other.


 














With the locker finished, it can now be decked over and fitted with lids. The central 'plank' will be removable, held in place with machine screws, so that the grating can be pulled out and the locker cleaned, painted, etc.

The teak that I bought, while intended to be used for decking, and quarter sawn, is too thick to be laid using the Gougeon Bros method.  That's the bad news.  The good news is that cut in two, it gives me twice as much wood!  The tools that I have (and my skills) weren't really up to the task, so I got Noel at Norsand to do it for me.  The '10mm' varied from about 8 to 11mm, so the cut teak is also in different thicknesses.  I'll grade it all  - up to 4mm, 4 -4.5mm, etc - so that I can use a standard thickness per job, putting it through my own planer to get it an even thickness once I've selected sufficient for the job.  There is heaps of wood: not only enough for the decks and cockpit fit out, but also sufficient to veneer the galley counter, saloon table and probably the cabin sole, too.  Bearing poor David's worry about building an overweight boat in mind, I worked out the weight of all this teak.  91 kilos.  I'll throw out some books to make up for it.  I can also use thinner plywood for the centre of the main deck and around the cockpit.  






















I couldn't resist laying a bit of it out to see what it will look like.  Pretty good, I reckon!








Finally - I have started work on the forecabin.

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Oh lord!  I can't believe how long it is since I last posted.  I have been working pretty constantly on the boat, with my only real reprieve being a nice tiki tour with my old friend, Steve, during which time we pottered around parts of North Island and encountered some pretty dire weather.  In spite of this we had a great time and some wonderful encounters with kiwi, parrots and other splendid natives of the country, including a number of my friends.  Fortunately, Steve enjoys meeting interesting people, so I had a fine excuse to catch up friends I haven't seen for too long.

Once again, I have to apologise for the dreadful layout of the blog.  I did exactly the same thing before and after each photo, but some nicely between the text and in some cases the text ended up alongside.  I've no time to play with it - I have a boat to build! - so I'm afraid you'll just have to put up with it.

And then back to the grindstone.  Again, I think a 'photo essay' is probably the easiest way for people to see what I've been up to.  I hope all this boatbuilding isn't too tedious for those wondering what I'm up to.  If you want to read the adventures of a real sailor, I suggest you look at this blog.

So back to the anchor locker:  in order to complete the anchor locker, I needed a bit of additional framing for the lid. Here I'm sawing up some treated kahikatea I've been given by Marcus.


















The locker lids and the central panel will land on the saligna stringers shown below. No doubt people will occasionally jump down onto the foredeck: saligna is good and strong!

 
















With the plywood for the deck in place, I needed to work out where the teak would be, to assess where the hinges would be.  However, before laying the teak, I had to cap the forward end of the bulwarks.  It all required a lot of thought so as to get things in the right order.

 















 The stringers were then glued in to place.


















Before proceeding any further with the foredeck, I had to finish capping the bulwark ends.


















I laminated treated kahikatea into place and, because of the curve of the hull, screwed it rather than clamping.  In fact the curve of the hull meant that it was quite tricky to get a clamp to hold, anyway.

  





















After making a pattern, I cut the locker lid.  I'd debated whether to cut the hinge line parallel to the hull or the centreline. I decided the former would give more support to the deck - thinking once more of these putative heavy people leaping all over my boat!


















The previously flo-coated deck was given 2 coats of epoxy primer and 2 of custom-coloured polyurethane paint. it was surprisingly difficult to get the colour that I wanted and the guy in the shop insisted on taking me out into daylight to prove that it matched the colour I had chosen: the artificial light made it look quite different.  It's a warm, light yellow, in case your computer doesn't show it correctly, either.  The epoxy undercoat is there only because of the poor covering ability of 2-pack polyurethane paint.  If it covered better, I'd just put it straight on to the WEST, but epoxy primer is a lot cheaper, so I use that first.


















It occurred to me that making the scupper with the teak in place, might damage my deck, so I did it before gluing down the plywood. The two holes will be joined together to make a long slot. 


















Allowance was made for the teak overlay.

  





















A little distraction: one of NZ's delightful insects is the praying mantis. They're usually bright green and lurk in the grass, waiting for their prey. This one is camouflaged to match the okoume ply!  Unfortunately, it's one of the South African interlopers.  Apparently the kiwi male praying mantis can't tell the difference between them and a native female, with disastrous results, because the SA female often indulges in the unpleasant habit of eating her partner, which the male has no defences against: kiwi praying mantids are rather safer lovers!
The lids for the anchor locker and the removable centre panel land on framework, coated with epoxy and graphite, for a hard, UV resistant surface. 
Now for the fun bit - fitting the teak to the foredeck.  I started with the removable centre panel so as to be sure that my 'king plank' was in the correct place.
Dry fitting the teak to the forward end of the foredeck. I decided to fill in the space between the bow rollers with teak, too. I've got plenty of it and as it's just above the copper, it would be difficult to decide what colour to paint it.
1 February - the removable centre plank sanded.
  
The stack of prepared teak for the anchor locker lids.

 
Fitting the teak to the rest of the deck. The screws and washers go between the planks: the screws act as spacers, the washers hold the teak down, while the glue sets.  This works well and save having to drill out, plug and fill screw holes in the planks.  To say nothing of having to cut the plugs.
One of the craftsmen in the yard here, suggested that investing in masking tape might save me a lot of work. If you tape up the edges of the teak before gluing it down, it becomes a lot easier to remove the excess.  Ideally, one does this at the just-beyond-sticky stage, but that normally meant when I was tucked up in bed.  If I weren't so idle, I'd have saved myself even more work.  I also sent every piece of teak for the foredeck, through the thicknesser at the same setting.  They looked as though they were all the same thickness, but when I came to sand the deck I realised that it was well worth doing.  By and large, all I sanded off was glue.
A tiny triangle of teak was required to finish the corner. I was delighted that the starboard side could be used as a pattern for the port side.  Delighted and astonished when I think of the grief the bow had caused me,when planking up.
  
It all looks a bit messy after gluing it down. but the masking tape kept the worst of the epoxy off the cabin front and bulwark. 
Gluing down the starboard planks. To port, the old masking tape has been removed,taking the worst of the mess with it and new tape laid down for filling gaps in the seams and topping up screw holes. 
Finishing laying the deck. The masking tape, combined with the accurately thicknessed teak, saves a lot of sanding.  Thank you, Craig, for the idea.
Final top up of the seams.  Graphite and epoxy makes for a particularly filthy dust: a vacuum cleaner, attached to the sander, makes sanding much more tolerable. 
The portholes I bought are impossible (for me) to fit as designed, so I decided to fit them back to front. To clean them up I discovered some fantastic pads from 3M which leave no scratches.  It's a long and tedious job which I tend to pick up when I'm stuck on something or towards the end of the day.
 
Here is the foredeck all done and dusted. Nice, eh?  My detractors think I'm crazy, but I will get so much pleasure from these decks.  And even more pleasure from not having to repaint them regularly.
  
Saligna and teak knock seven bells out of edge tools and my thicknesser was protesting. I needed to change the planer blades: 'when all else fails, read the instructions'!  In fact I think I put them back in better than they were originally.  Double-sided so no bill, this time.
With the foredeck just about finished (apart from the hardware) I could finally start fiting out the forecabin.  I can't believe how long it's taken me to get here.  The photo shows me sawing up kaihikatea for cabin sole bearers. 
 The first of the bearers fitted and glued in to place.
  
The outboard bearers are also cut to fit, but I waited until I'd finished painting out the bilge area to fit them, because they were hard to paint around. 
The back of the cabin sole flocoated. I won't paint this, so the epoxy is the final coating.
Here the cabin sole is down and the bunk panel roughly fitted. Because I - foolishly - only took the kauri panelling part way down, fitting this piece of plywood proved to be a bit of a mission. 
To match the bulkheads, I fitted kauri 'tongue and groove' to the bunk panel. 
On Badger, all the locker interiors were clear finished, but this made them very dark. It was both diccicult to find things and to keep them clean. I'm going to paint the ones on SibLim, but leave the bottom panel clear, which will show up water ingress.  (Although I very much hope there won't be any!)
15th March.  Trying out the bunk panel for size, having painted out the locker.


  
The panel glued in place.
 
A quick final coat on the inside of the panel to tidy up. Painting out the lockers is time consuming, but I think will be worth it when I come to look for things in the future.
The top of the bunk is a big flat area, so will need a fair bit of stout framing to support it. Here I'm fitting a transverse member, supported by an upright. 
The rest of the framing. I'm trying to keep it true, in spite of someone commenting that the boat is unlikely to float perfectly level. 
Originally I was going to fit the flat as one piece and then cut out the hatches. One trip up the ladder with it convinced me that there was an easier, if less elegant, way of doing it.


















Framing glued in place.



















Because the panelling didn't go all the way down the bulkheads, I had to add pieces at each end of the bunk front after the event.


















The lids were cut out of the bunk and everything was flocoated. 


















The flat was then glued into place. Yes, the lids are enormous: from experience this huge locker is the only one that will take some items, for example spare oars. It's a nightmare if the opening is too small and you either have to take everything else out, or jiggle around what's already there.

  
















1st April. The bunk flat finished, apart from a couple of coats of varnish. There is room around the outboard edge for the cushion to be supported, and the lid to rest against it, when I need to get underneath.  It's very irritating to have to take the cushion off completely and to pu it somewhere else, each time you dive into the locker.

  
















OK, that's the state of play as at the start of April.  Yes, it's all taking a very long time, but I never thought I had a chance of building this boat in less than two years.  Now I realise it's more likely to be three.  But as I'm enjoying it, I don't suppose that really matters.  And I do have enough money, although I shall have to pull my belt in hard once the boat is in the water.  This doesn't bother me in the slightest - I can think of nothing I would enjoy more than disappearing out of sight, somewhere up a long and winding creek, far from the madding crowd and any places where I can spend my money! 

June 2017 SibLim update

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Last week, I had to create a new photo album on my profile in the JRA website, which is where I've been posting my progress.  I was told that I couldn't have any more, so I deleted one and created a new one.  However, obviously this is a finite resource, which gave me pause to think.  Cheerfully, I came to the conclusion that I couldn't carry on posting my progress there, so would have to redirect people to this blog, instead.  I say 'cheerfully', because posting to the JRA site is a slow and painful process and then I have to make the time to post here, too.  And it is only too apparent to anyone following this log, that finding that time is a lot easier said than done.

There is a fair amount of relatively mindless work involved in boatbuilding.  Sanding and scraping, filleting and fairing, painting and preparation all required care and concentration, but they do leave a large part of the brain disengaged to wander off.  Part of the time it is thinking through the next job or series of jobs, but much of the time it ambles off thinking Deep Thoughts about Life, the Universe and Everything.  Occasionally, these thoughts are at least slightly illuminating.

It is a truth universally acknowledged that women are good at 'multi-tasking'.  However, what appears to be overlooked, and what is becoming painfully obvious to me as a female boatbuilder, is that there are two sides to this coin.   Indeed, an unkind person might suggest that 'multi-tasking' could also be described as 'being sidetracked'.  It certainly is in my case. I start each week - and each day - with the best of intentions, but somehow my plans go awry and I find myself distracted with other jobs that I am perfectly convinced are absolutely essential.  Undoubtedly, it is better if most of these are done, but many of them could be postponed - indefinitely in many cases.  Yes, this would cost me friendships, let people down, mean that I break promises, narrow my outlook and increase the squalor around me, but in the past when I've been building a boat, because I've been building under the supervision of a man, I've been building to his terms and conditions and did all of the above.  The friends forgave us, horizons expanded again and the squalor got left behind.  And the boats got built a lot more quickly.

Men on the other hand, are extraordinarily good at concentrating on one thing at a time, for extensive periods of time - years, if needs be.  I wish I could get in touch with my 'inner man' and build like men do.  I wish I could happily abandon everything else to concentrate on the task in hand, but I find that I can't.  I have to multi-task, you see.  That's what women do and it sounds so much better than being sidetracked.

Anyway, enough maundering.  We have to go back to April.  I do hope I'm not just wasting my time here and somebody is actually interested (I should be building my boat: see above), but there aren't going to be an overwhelming number of photos: I don't seem to have done that much!  (See above)  Actually, I realise I tell a lie here, because I'd forgotten all about building the tabernacle - maybe I have managed a bit more than it seems, although I was back to the mixing-glue-and-standing-by role in that one.  Of which more later - in a couple of weeks, maybe.  I'm going to have a catch-up today, rather than trying to get every bit of progress posted.  Gives you something to look forward to!

OK. Back to 7 April:

We are now in the forecabin, where I cut a hatch out of the cabin sole, which has to be cut into two boards, fore and aft.  The tabernacle is going to be situated against the bunk with its after end against the plywood floor (under the join in the plywood.  I then glued the surrounding area of the sole down.  This will be covered with a nice hardwood overlay and then, because I'm me, that will probably be hidden by a beautiful rug (Chinese silk for preference.  Why not?  A girl can dream!)

In the meantime, Pete (yes, that Pete), who has spent the summer in New Zealand helping junkies left, right and centre move their boats forward, offered to help me make the tabernacle.  Because he is the world expert on tabernacles for junk rig, I snatched his hand off.  For a lot of the time, he needed no help as he beavered away at the rather nice, second-hand douglas fir that we'd bought from St Lukes Timber, so when I wasn't required, I carried on finishing up the foredeck: a job I could pick up and put down. Here I'm placing the bow rollers, which made it instantly apparent that they would have to stay off for the duration of the build, if I wanted to continue to be able to get around the bow!


Gary Underwood had sold me a couple of splendid bronze fittings, from which I made a bollard for the foredeck (to be used for when I pick up moorings.  Yes, it looks like overkill, but I'll be happy that it's so big when I'm struggling to get an oyster-encrusted mooring pennant over the bow roller, and its 20mm rope strop secured).  The cruciform bollard I bought second-hand off Trade Me.  It will go on a teak plinth, which is just about to be glued down, in the photo.  I made epoxy bases for the other fittings - the bolts, as usual, will be 'cast' in epoxy.

With everything completed, I started varnishing some of the teak deck - purely for the looks of it.  In the long term, it means that when the teak is badly worn and weathered and needs replacing, the covering boards and 'king plank' can stay in place, but I doubt that I'll still be around to worry about that! 




The tabernacle was completed by now and of course I was itching to try it for size and build the mast step.  But before I could do that, I had to work out the height of the deck at that point because the foot of the tabernacle is tapered and has to be a very precise fit in its step.  We made it a bit too long because we didn't know - to the nearest few mm - just where it would go through the deck.  So the best way to find that out was to measure it against the actual deck level, but to do that I needed deck beams to tell me and to do that I had to fit the deck beams ... which I first had to make.  They consist of two straight ends with a curved centre piece, part of a cylinder, identical from one beam to the next.  (One of David Tyler's cunning ideas to make the build less difficult.)  The obvious way to make this curve is from laminated wood, so after sawing up and planing a heap of douglas fir, to 5mm thickness, I made a jig to laminate it around.


I've held the clamps on this job on the past, while building Badger and China Moon, so had a fairly good idea of what to do.  And epoxy is wonderful for laminating, because it fills gaps so well, but I was very pleased to see that my jig performed quite nicely.







On the first beam, however, I factored in a 'glue allowance'. Wrong. The glue made no measurable difference to the finished thickness. 6 x 5 = 30mm, finishing at 29. Good enough.  No problem on beam no 1 - I simply added another laminate.  















I dare say that I've already mentioned that new wood is fantastically expensive (well, to me, it seems fantastically expensive) and having just about got through my supplies of Alaskan yellow cedar, I've been scratching around for more.  The straight parts of the beams would gobble through stock, but just when I was thinking that another visit to St Luke's might be required, friends (now SibLim Club members) Cathy and Pete came up with a wonderful contribution.  They are, for their sins, rebuilding a house, up in the Bay of Islands and Marcus has been working there.  He noted a 'surplus' douglas fir beam and when I offered to buy it, they gave it to me.  What a gift! I could hardly move it, but when Marcus came back for a weekend, he helped me clean it up.

It cleaned up nicely: milling wood must be one of the most pleasant jobs in boatbuilding!












It was too big to saw up with the table saw, but Marcus picked up his enormous Makita circular saw and ripped it up into manageable lengths for me to handle.
















Once I'd made the centre sections of each deck beam, I scarphed on the end pieces.  












(We are now in early May, by the way.)  This was one of the rather more satisfying jobs to do.  As you can see, the ends just fly past the scarph that I've cut on the curved section, which means that producing a nice joint is rather more easy than normally.  For all that, I clamped and wedged all three lengths as well as I could along lines I'd drawn on the table in an effort to introduce in as little symmetry as possible.  (In spite of my best efforts, the curved sections are not perfectly symmetrical.  There is a tad more curve on one side than the other, so I marked them all to ensure that they match up.)





Using the bandsaw, I took off the bulk of the excess and then set to with the power plane, which I am starting to find marginally less terrifying to use.










When all the deck beams were completed, I put them roughly in place. There was no real justification for this apart from the fact that I was dying to see what the boat would 'feel' like with the deck in place.  The bulkheads have yet to be trimmed to shape, but backing up, I could eye along their centres and it all looks reasonably fair.












When I'd been making the beams and placed them one on top of the other, they were disappointingly varied.  However, in situ, they look much better: distance lends enchantment.
















When I come to fit the deck plywood, I can plane and fill as required along glued-in beams, to get everything fair. They need to be notched into the sides of the boat.  It looks smaller (and nicer), framed in, I think.








The deck beams to support the tabernacle are more or less in position, in the above photo.  (In fact, I'll probably put the after one more in the middle of the cabin, with blocking between the two beams.)  You will recall that this is where it all started!







With the beams made, I now have to complete the sheer clamp, in order to plane it down again(!), so that I can notch in the beams.  I'd had a blithe notion of picking up a bit of 2x1 and whacking it into place.  Not a chance! There is a lot of curve - both ways - along this sheer line.













Here I'm gluing on the second length, with the scarph joint awaiting the next piece.  Some of the last of my yellow cedar going on here.

















With all the layers on, I sanded it fair and coated it with epoxy on the inside.  It showed up the places I'd been somewhat careless with the initial layers, when the hull had been upside down.  If I'd had any brains, I'd have left it all well alone until at this stage, but thinking that far ahead is literally impossible for me.  
This last photo was taken on 30 May, so you are not that far behind me, now.  With luck, I'll post some more next week.

In the meantime, if someone can tell me how to get in touch with my inner male and learn how to focus on getting this job done, I should be very grateful!

The Tabernacle, plus DIY composting toilet

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Early in the piece, I decided that I wanted a tabernacle and David supported this idea.  The obvious reason for putting a junk mast in a tabernacle is that you can raise and lower it without the need for a crane: when the mast is stepped on the keel, getting it in or out is otherwise quite an issue.  It's not just a case of undoing the clasp and giving it a shove backwards, but if you position the boat securely - and in SibLim's case, firmly aground would be the secure spot of choice - and then find a suitable strong point, fairly high up, you can use a rope from the mast head to take the weight and lower it under some form of control.  For all that, it's not something I'm likely to undertake lightly.  However, there were - for me - two additional reasons for wanting a tabernacle.  The first is that a mast that goes through the deck can leak.  It doesn't have to, and indeed, it's rarely been an issue for me, but it can do and when it does it's very unpleasant with the likelihood of getting saltwater on my feather quilt - something that is frankly intolerable.  An unstayed mast needs to be keel stepped, but if you bury it firmly in a tabernacle that is keel stepped, you achieve the same ends, but as the tabernacle will never have to come out, it can be glued in at deck level and won't leak.  Point number one.  Point number two is that as I can't afford either the cost or the weight of a wooden mast, SibLim's mast will be made like Fantail's, with an alloy lower mast and a wooden upper one.  I don't like alloy: it's cold and unattractive.  However, the tabernacle could be build out of wood - indeed that would be the easiest way to build it and a nicely varnished tabernacle would be a thing of beauty in my forecabin.  And so it was decided.  That Pete should offer to come along and make me one was the icing on the cake.

BBS Timbers are a pleasure to deal with, there's no doubt about it and their wood is first-class.  I bought the Douglas fir for the topmast from them and it's some of the best I've ever seen.  However, it cost me the best part of a thousand dollars and I didn't think I could afford possibly even more for my tabernacle.  Pete had recently build a topmast for another junkie, here in NZ and had bought some beautiful demolition Douglas fir from St Lukes Timber - a timber yard just outside Auckland, so I went down there one day, and bought two big 2 large beams, each 200 x 150 and brought them back to Whangarei.  They were still eye-wateringly expensive, but about a quarter of what the timber would have cost new.

Pete came along to build the tabernacle just after the JRA AGM, in early April, and an Ozzie junkie, Dieter, came along to join in the fun.  Between them they milled the timber to suitable dimensions and then Pete got to work.  The two large beams were machined into 50mm boards for the tabernacle. There were two, almost knot-free boards which Pete selected for the two long timbers that would go from the keel, through the deck and up another metre to form the sides of the tabernacle.

I have fond memories of the tabernacle that we fitted on Missee Lee, and ever the nostalgia junkie, was hoping to reproduce the effect on SibLim.  Pete and I were delighted - and somewhat surprised - to see we could get the large boards of Douglas fir to bend to a pleasing taper, which will look much more attractive than a straight, solid section.


At deck level there is a laminated block, which provides support at the base of the mast and incidentally stiffens the deck at this point.  We made it of a couple of pieces, with the upper part of kwila, left over from the skegs, which is nice and hard in case the mast does move and chafe a little.



Because the tube is round, we had to make the tabernacle to support this.  We machined some triangular section pieces of Douglas fir and glued these into the corners of the tabernacle to support the mast.  Here I am precoating the sides before gluing the chocks on.


And here are the wedges, ready to be glued into place.



The wedges weren't the easiest of things to clamp into place.  It's times like this when I really appreciate the fact that epoxy really only needs to make good contact between the gluing surfaces, and doesn't require pressure.


Pete shaping the top of the tabernacle where the hinge system (yet to be designed) will fit.  The logical way to hinge the mast would be to put a damn great bolt through it and pivot on that.  However, this would seriously weaken the alloy tube and it wouldn't actually do much for the tabernacle.  The idea is to attach something to the back of the mast - like a tube - in some way use this for pivoting around.  This would be a lot easier with a wooden base, but for the moment the design is 'on hold' while I wait for inspiration to strike.  It's not exactly a priority at the moment!



The lower part of the tabernacle can be left partly open, fore and aft for the sake of aesthetics, because it takes very little load. The fill-in piece is curved to spread loads evenly where it ends.  It's not necessary to take it right down to the keel and completely unnecessary to have timber down the front of the tabernacle.  I debated fitting little shelves across, on which to display objets d'art, but as you would have to sit at the forward end of the bunk to admire them, decided it probably wasn't worth it.  But it would have been a nice little touch.

Douglas fir was laminated into blocking for the base of the tabernacle.  This is where it will sit in what is effectively a mast step and because the loads from the mast will be transferred down the tabernacle to this point, it needs to be substantial.  From pure and personal observation, the partners don't seem to take a vast amount of load - but the foot does.

 

The main pieces laid out ready to assemble. Above decks, everything is covered in bi-axial glass cloth and epoxy. I hate using bi-axial - it's impossible to wet it out invisibly, which I take a pride in doing.  But it does add strength to the job.  However, as bi-axial fibreglass goes, it went on OK.



Once the epoxy had cured, I sanded everything down and then the back of the tabernacle was screwed and glued to the sides.  While the glue was setting up. we added a couple of clamps just to ensure that it all stayed square.  It's now starting to look something like and those who had been coming to watch now had expressions of slowly-dawning illumination when they looked at it.  Tabernacles for free-standing masts are not really 'intuitive'.



We'd used pretty massive screws to hold  everything together and these required a plugging.  My puny little cutters came nowhere near the job, but fortunately Noel, the Whangarei boatbuilder who works at Norsand has everything in one or other of his numerous tool boxes.  He generously lent me what was required and I spent a happy time, standing in the corner cutting plugs from scrap Douglas fir.


Here you can see the blocking at the base of the mast, and also get a good idea of the nice quality of the fir.



These are some of the screws that had to be plugged.  Most of the time, I remove fastenings when I'm building.  They add cost (and weight!), but they can also make it difficult to do repairs.  However, when you get to such large timbers, you are asking a lot of the glue, so a couple of additional fastenings does add reassurance.




All the inside of the tabernacle, where the mast will be, is covered in glass and epoxy and then coated again. It will all be painted in due course, above decks.  


Below decks, the glass stops and the tabernacle is just coated in several coats of clear epoxy.  This will be varnished, and so I have a 'wooden mast' below rather than an alloy one.  You can see the cut-off point quite clearly here: in spite of my best efforts, the bi-axial glass looks slightly milky due to entrapped air.



Needless to say, we could hardly wait to offer it up and see what it looks like.  It's both long and heavy and it was a bit of a struggle to get it into place without knocking bits off anything.  Pete, in the forward cabin, gives some idea of scale. The yellow batten more or less delineates the line of the deck.  In all honestly, I have to say that it looks pretty massive!  And yes, it is off-centre.  This is to allow for a bigger bunk and means that the sail will end up on the centre line.  Putting masts on the centreline is an occidental obsession.  In the days when the Chinese built large, ocean going junks, they used to scatter the masts around with gay abandon, apparently wherever there was an unused spot.


















This photograph is what the tabernacle will look like when sitting up in the bunk.  Thankfully, it is somewhat less dominating.  In fact, I find it very pleasing and a lot more attractive than the alloy tube I had next to my pillow on Fantail.  We took it out again after the trial: I need to make a step to hold it in place, first.

As I mentioned in the previous post, before doing this, I had first to establish exactly how far it was from keel to deck and to do this I had to fit deck beams to work out where the deck was to go.  


By the end of May, I had built up the sheer clamp, ready to plane to shape and notch for the deck beams.  However, it is difficult to get at, and my friend and landlord, Marcus, promised to make me a staging to work from.  This has proven to be a bit easier said that done as he has been otherwise occupied in the Bay of Islands.  However - there is no shortage of work on a boat in build.



I carried on in the forecabin.  I've been giving a bit of thought to insulation.  I don't see my taking SibLim into icy waters, but it can get a bit nippy here in NZ and as well as a wood stove for heat, I will need to consider condensation.  However too much insulation makes for a cold boat in spring and autumn mornings.  So I've decided just to insulate alongside the bunk and have an air gap in the deckhead.  

 Marcus had some insulation material kicking around and offered me some, which I stuck to the side of the boat.  I then made a plywood panel to cover the insulation alongside the bunk and the little chocks are to glue it to.




As usual, I pre-coated the back.  I'd had notions of being able to staple it to the blocking, but even after giving the insulation a trim so that it didn't require compressing, I discovered that there was simply too much curve in the hull here.  So it was back to drilling holes, backing out screws and filling again.

After doing this, I decided to do a bit more preparation work for painting, so that I can get the job done as I go along.  Otherwise it will be an enormous effort at the end of the build.  So I've been coating and filleting along chine logs and stringers, sanding and filling, filling and sanding.  I can hardly go for a 'super-yacht' finish - nor would I if I could - but I'm after something that is neat and workmanlike.
 Alongside the bilgeboards, on deck, are two lockers, which I may well use for firewood.  They should be relatively dry and because they are isolated from the rest of the boat, I will be able to bring wood aboard from ashore, without worrying too much about dirt and insects.  As I walk past them every day, I decided to get some paint inside them.  I also drilled a couple of drainage holes for the inevitable rain water that will find its way in.

This seems like a good time to start on the heads comparment, too.  I have decided on the jerricans that I'm using for my water supplies and flopped down a floorboard to check that they would fit under OK.  No problems.  However, I'm fitting a composting toilet and need to be sure that I have room for a hatch for these jerricans, between it and the bulkhead.
The passage way is offset, but pretty wide.  The original plan was to have the head facing inboard, but perching myself there on a handy bucket felt distinctly precarious.  I'd much rather have the toilet fore and aft with a wee bulkhead to support me.  But that would mean I'd have to shift my planned battery stowage.  Time spent with a tape measure appears to show that this idea will work, but seeing as how I was thinking about, I decided to go ahead and make a composting heads.

I had had a C-head on Fantail and loved it.  But it hadn't been cheap and the wee bottle was a bit too wee for my requirements.  Churning the compost doesn't seem essential, so I decided to try making my own, without.


Accepting having the locally-owned DIY store's logo on the 20 litre bucket saved me $13 and there is no shortage (I regret to say) of disposable water bottles about, so I scavenged one from the skip.  The trickiest part of a composter is keeping the liquids and solids separated, and I decided to invest in an off-the-shelf urine diverter from Kildwick low impact toilets


in the UK.  Infuriatingly, I found a cheaper one at We pee, but I also found plans to make a toilet at the same site.  It's hardly rocket science, but a set of plans does point out such things as making sure the back of the seat is square.  I decided to make my seat, too, out of Tiger wood (Marcus and I bought a load from BBS).
Here is the seat itself, placed on the lid, ready for marking.  You make the hole in the plywood a bit bigger and then secure the seat to it.  Apparently, the thinking appears to be that you ventilate the box, but you don't let air in or out around the seat and lid.  I gather this reduces insect issues too, not that I had any with the C-head.  Behind you can see the plywood cut to size.  The heads bulkhead will form the back and the sole will form the bottom, with everything filleted together, to make it easy to keep clean.  When I tried it all out, I found it was far too high.  I need the height if I continue to use the 6 litre water bottle, but 5 litres should be adequate, so I've decided to cut it down 50mm and see what I can find.  If all else fails, I can buy this from the Little House Company.







Fitting out in the heads compartment

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There is a lot to be said for living in a boat shed: it's much more my type of place than a house, but it's not without its little issues.  I was annoyed a couple of weeks ago to discover that the resident rat had broken our accord, which was that s/he stayed down in the boat shed and I had my 'flat' to myself.  When the invasion continued, I reluctantly set a trap.  It was sprung twice, but the rat escaped each time.  However, it apparently decided it was unwelcome and appears to have left.

Then I realised that I might have done it an injustice.  I had seen the rat, but Somebody Else was invading my space and attacking apples, carrots and potatoes.  But it was when it ate the persimmons I had just bought at the market, that I realised my visitor was a possum.  (These are introduced to New Zealand, predate on our defenceless native birds and trees and do untold damage.  They are completely out of control, have no natural predators and number in the millions.  Some of the early settlers had rocks in their heads.) Its calling cards were unmistakable.  So, muttering curses, I blocked off its access and thought that was that.  Well, it found some other weaknesses in my defences, so I spent a whole morning, crawling around in the corners of my living space, blocking and boarding up holes, cursing at the waste of time, the pee and poo it had left behind and the destruction of my fresh food.

This time I was entirely successful, but the possum was not at all amused and spent the night rampaging around, scratching and gnawing at my new additions and keeping me awake.  Surely, I thought to myself, it now realises it is wasting its time.  Apparently not because the next night it tried again. 


Now, the main reason that I'm a vegetarian is that I hate killing things, but after the best part of a week of broken nights, I decided that enough was enough.  I borrowed a possum trap and baited it with an apple - I was not going to give the brute another persimmon!  I was cooking my dinner when I heard the dreadful sound of the trap closing.  With some trepidation I looked out of the door and saw an empty trap.  I went down to reset it and saw that, sure enough, the possum had been tempted by the bait and had taken a bite before the trap sprung.  How it escaped, I don't know, but the story, really, has a happy ending.  The possum like the rat, decided it was no longer welcome and didn't come back.  So now I can sleep again and concentrate on building my boat! 

Since I last posted, I have been entirely involved in fitting out the heads.  The composting toilet has been somewhat altered and refined.  I'm very pleased with how the seat and lid have turned out, in the tigerwood.  I have coated
them with epoxy, as usual, and can see that the wood will look very handsome when varnished.  As I'm intending to use this on my bench tops, I'm very pleased that I took the plunge and invested in it. 

Tigerwood is one of these 'oily' woods that is purported to be difficult to glue.  However, I glued it up as I normally do and, after cutting out the shapes, tried destructive testing on what was left.  As I would have hoped, the wood broke rather than the glue, which was reassuring.


While the epoxy was hardening up, I went back and did some painting.  I had hoped one more coat would finish off the side of the bunk, but when the sun came out I could see that another coat is required.  I shall do it at the same time as I paint out the heads. 






My original thinking had been to have the heads compartment entirely white, because it will have little in the way of natural light.  But a bit of thought made me realise that the side of the toilet will get brushed past and kicked and will require constant cleaning, so I panelled it with thin pieces of kauri. 

I built it up quite high, so that I can lean up against it when we are sailing on port tack.  In this photo you can also see the fore-and-aft bulkhead that is going to form the locker front on the port side.

The other thing I discovered was that the design I was using for my toilet produced something that was far, far too large.  So I made it narrower, which also enlarged my locker.  It was too tall, as well, so I chucked out the water bottle I had been going to use.  I scratched around trying to find a container such as they sell flares in, but they are never around when you need them, so I bought one via the Internet instead. 
One of the good things about boatbuilding, is that there are always a number of rather mindless tasks that allows my mind to ponder how I'm going to do things.  I had long ago decided that the battery (I only need one, not having an inboard engine) was going to be situated in the heads area, together with the fuse panel.  (These are not pretty things and I can see no reason for sitting staring at one in the saloon). 

Having had to struggle with trying to work on wires at the back of switches on a number of occasions, I'm determined that my wiring is going to be both simple and accessible.  The switch panels are going to be attached to a piece of plywood that will hinge down and I decided it would be worth having a counter adjacent, to be able to put things down on when working on the electrics.  I want to ensure that the wires have a clean run up from the battery and that it will be easy to add more should I want to.  So I cut out a fore and aft bulkhead, with room for a counter at the forward end and made a door for the switch panels.

Both bulkheads were then coated.  The next step was to fit the shelves, which required a lot of taking off and putting on of the bulkhead framing, much work with a spirit level and more than a little cogitation as to what was going to be stored where.  My first plan was to put the beer barrel to port, but to make a shelf that it would sit on happily was going to waste too much space, so it's going to end up to starboard.  I need a space next to the toilet for the composting medium and reckon 250mm should suffice.
Working around this means that I end up with a pretty big locker.  There's a fairly narrow shelf at the bottom, which essentially just makes for a level surface, a large one above that and then a smaller, top shelf.  Because of the bilge board cases, the side of the boat generally goes the opposite way to what one is used to.
On the other side, I thought I'd come up with the perfect arrangement: beer brewing barrel, laundry basket and bulk storage of the composting material, making fantastic of a barrel I'd been offered.  Unfortunately, the latter fitted so perfectly that there is nowhere for the wires to run up from the battery, so regretfully I shall have to make another plan here.  But if anything, I have an embarrassment of locker space, so I don't think it will be an issue.

Before I can assemble all these various bits of joinery, I need to paint them, so I can see what I will be doing for the next week or so.


Mid July 2017

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While I've been busy all week, there isn't really a lot to show for it, because I've been preparing shelves and spaces in the heads compartment.  This has involved coating fiddly pieces of framing for the shelves and gluing them into place, as well as coating and sanding the shelves themselves. There is a surprising amount of tooth sucking going on at what probably sounds like a very straightforward project.  One of the issues is that if I put the vertical framing in too early, I can't get the shelves in.  Equally, if I put the shelves in too early it's harder to paint out the locker. 

And the cabin sole needs to be fitted, but goes under the locker, so I didn't want to fit that until I'm sure everything else is prepared.  It has a hatch cut out of it, so I had to remember to put some framing in for that.  Finally everything was ready and I took a final photo of the bilge, which won't see the light of day again.

Eventually, I plan to cover the bits of the cabin sole that you can see with hardwood, to make a pleasant surface to walk on.  I shall probably leave it bare so that it doesn't become slippery when it's wet.  Shiny varnish doesn't stay shiny for very long, I've discovered.  Thinking about the fact that I was making a space for the beer brewing barrel reminded me that I needed somewhere for the beer, too. 

It has to stand up without falling over, so I made a shelf with room for three bottles across and 7 along.  In the photo the fack looks a bit shallow, but the inboard and outboard bottles are supported by the locker front and boat side, so can't tip.  Presumably, the ones in the middle won't tip over, either.

With everything ready to install, I've started painting.  I'm trying to do as much as possible 'on the bench' for obvious reasons, but will no doubt have some touching up work to do once everything is fitted.  The masking tape is keep the wood paint free for gluing.

It will be good to have the locker painted out.  I could have left it all simply sealed with WEST epoxy, but having done that in the past, I realise that the extra work of painting them out is worth the effort.  Varnished lockers are very dark and require a head torch to find stuff!

Painting and painting

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Painting in tight spaces is never much fun.  Painting with two-part polyurethane in same is far worse.  I am told - quite rightly - that I should wear protection when using this paint, so that I don't inhale the fumes.  Unfortunately, any that I have tried has caused my glasses to steam up, and as I need my glasses to see what I'm painting ...  I console myself with the fact that I'm getting old anyway, so what the hell.  And the shed is more than adequately ventilated!  However, I would never do this for money and I have completely abandoned using the epoxy primer, because I could still taste it, each time I exhaled, the following morning.  I was only using it to build up the colour, but now that I'm using the locally-made Carboline, I'm finding that it coats very well.  Considering that it is the stuff made for industry, it's going on surprisingly well with a brush.

I painted the inside of the locker and then both sides of the shelves.  I had to leave some parts unpainted for the glue, of course, but I still reckoned I'd save time - and fumes - doing them all separately.  Here there's the stack of shelves waiting to be fitted.

I glued in the first one and then masked it off and filleted it.  Again, it made sense to do as much as possible before putting in the next shelf and reducing the space available to work in.

Once all the shelves were fitted and filleted, I could go around and touch up where the fillets where, or the parts where I'd been a bit too generous with the masking tape.  This didn't take too long and, while probably not strictly necessary - who spends time gazing at the paint job in their lockers - gave me a feeling of satisfaction.

Another thing that gives me satisfaction is making my own beer.  I hardly touch it in the winter, but I really enjoy it for lunch or on a hot afternoon in the summer.

So space has to be found not only for the brewing barrel, but also for a good supply of bottles that can stand in peace, so that their contents settle.  Oddly enough, if the bottles can't move, the sediment remains undisturbed, even after a good beat to windward.  I made some interlocking pieces of plywood to keep them located. 

Of course, all these shelves are going in behind a bulkhead, the openings of which will provide the necessary fiddles.  So the next job is to cut out the doors.  I hate doing this.  I can't cut straight enough with a jigsaw and the multi-tool saw won't make a thick enough cut for the jigsaw blade to go down.  I tried it for one, then gave up and resorted to my Japanese saws.  The took longer, probably, but produced better results.  You are supposed to be able to 'plunge cut' with the smaller one.  Well, maybe.  But even sawing the cutouts by hand, they are far from perfect. 


Doors that are obviously just cut out from the plywood don't look that nice either, so I'm going to put a 'beading' around them.  This also gives the door something to land on and, while everything will be painted white, I think it will look better. 

 Ideally, I'd have made the doors and then routed a nice round over the inside of the framework, but they would need to be made of about 25mm stock for that to work.  You can't round the wood over in advance,either, because it all goes to custard in the corners.  So I just took advantage of epoxy's fantastic gluing abilities and carefully set up the beadings pushed together.  As long as they hold together long enough to be routed and sanded, that will suffice.  Once they are glued to the doors, they won't be going anywhere.

Still fitting out the heads

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Or if you prefer, "Title as Before".  Just half a dozen photos this week - one coat of paint looks much like another, in truth.  However, thank you for the feedback from those who have told me that catching up on my progress via this blog is better than working through the JRA site.  That's good to hear, because it's a lot easier for me, too!

Once I'd coated and sanded the plywood framing around the doors, it looked quite neat.  They're not perfectly even and symmetrical.  My story is that we're going for the country cottage look rather than the super-yacht finish on SibLim.  Not that I would want a super-yacht finish, even if I had the abilities to attain one.


However, the doors lined up in a satisfactory manner - this shows them located with the wooden 'hinges' as I call them attached.


As decent-quality hinges cost the best part of $20, I was seriously motivated to use an alternative.  The little lugs you can see protruding from the backs of the doors are the answer.  It means that when you 'open' the door, the whole thing comes off, but this isn't always an issue, especially if you're trying to get something big out of the locker.  Anyway, the minor inconvenience is a small price to pay for the money saved.  And avoiding the anguish of accurately fitting hinges!


The back of the port side.  The little rectangles aren't strictly necessary with the framed doors - the frame prevents them from going right through the hole.  But I only realised that after I'd made them.  I was thinking of keeping the doors shut with "automatic buttons", which are weighted catches that you fit over the door and which close by gravity and are very effective.  My friendly neighbourhood chandler had a few in stock, but insufficient for my purposes.  At $14 each, they weren't cheap, but I like them and he had no suitable brass turnbuttons.  (Yes, I could make them out of wood, but would prefer metal ones.)  So he contacted Fosters in Auckland who supply them - ah, yes, well the price has gone up.  They are now $40 each.  We looked at each other in horror.


So I went to Classic Marine in the UK.  They were offering them to me at the equivalent of $12.50 each, and I knew from experience that they charge what it costs for P&P rather than using it to make an extra profit.  However, at the same time I discovered that they were selling nice little - and affordable - turnbuttons, so I ordered some of those instead.  (I also discovered that they sell reasonably-priced hinges!)


I had some problems with their website - nothing is easy - so feeling a bit desperate, contacted Davey of London, who make all this lovely gear.  I had the most wonderful reply back from no lesser personage than the managing director and was seriously impressed at the promptness with which he replied, and the care for customers that this implied.  Anyway, Classic Marine's website sorted itself out and, I hope, these nice goodies are on their way.

In the meantime, I've been working on the starboard side of the heads compartment, where I'm fitting the electric panels, solar panel control and a shelf to put things on when I need to get at the electrics to replace a fuse, etc.

PS I finally seem to have worked out how to get my spacing sorted in the blogs.  Practice makes perfect, they say!

Taking time off

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I haven't posted recently because my last two Sundays have been taken up with my Enjoying Myself.  Shame on me.

A fortnight ago, it was my birthday, and friends Maren and Rob invited me for a birthday soiree, along with Marcus, Graeme and Roger - good friends and fellow junkies.  Maren greeted us with astonishingly strong cocktails, and I was given the chance of a long soak in a hot bath.  What a treat!  The rest of the afternoon and evening were spent eating, drinking and talking, while watching the sun set in the distance.  There is the most wonderful view over Whangarei Harbour from their house - ever changing and ever beautiful.  We all stayed the night, had a splendid brunch and sat around looking through the NZ JRA library, which is housed there.  Some lovely books about Chinese junks with great photographs.

Roger and Graeme came to view progress on SibLim on their way home, and by the time they left, I'd decided it was hardly worth doing any more.

Last weekend saw the Winter junket.  A commendable four boats made it.  I was going to opt out, having done nothing the previous weekend, but was persuaded by the thought of Shoestring's wood burner.  Marcus and I towed Freebie down on a trailer and were joined at Scott's Landing, Mahurangi by Graeme.  By the time we'd rigged the boat, it was blowing great guns, and Marcus was more than happy that he had traded with Walter for Pacific Spray's 2 hp outboard, which drove us manfully over to where Shoestring lay comfortably anchored.  La Chica joined us some time later, and we all snugged down on Shoestring, with the fire burning away.  It was no day for sailing.

However, the next day dawned flat calm and we decided to go out and see if we could find some wind.

La Chica was first away and as she does astonishingly well in light winds, she soon headed away from us up the harbour.  Her weight lets her continue through the calm patches until she finds the next puff of wind.  Sadly, this may be the last time that La Chica will be attending one of our junkets.  Paul fitted her out meticulously, for a single-handed, non-stop circumnavigation, and having got her absolutely ready to go, decided against it.  His cat didn't fancy the idea, and he's come across his 'ideal boat', which is going to be for sale fairly soon - and likely to be snapped up if he isn't around.  All in all, he's decided to spend his time living on board and pottering around NZ, rather than being 'one man against the ocean'.  La Chica must be bitterly disappointed and is looking for a new owner.  She is, as they say, ready to go.  Just add water.  Anyone looking for an 'expedition vessel'?

The rest of us followed along behind.  Shoestring has been languishing for a while, awaiting a new mast.  Finally stepped a couple of months back, Roger has been getting back into the swing of sailing her.  She is using her original flat sail, while he decides what experiment to try next.  (The weedmat sail is being used in the garden, now.)  One of his experiments that interests me is the bamboo battens he is trying out.  They grow plentifully around here and in fact are a weed that people are often more than happy for you to remove.  So they are free - and they look wonderful. 
 
Footprints sailed over from her mooring to sail with us.  I was steering Shoestring, but I'm afraid I couldn't get her anywhere near her sistership when we were sailing to windward - admittedly in very light winds.  However, the wind picked up a bit later and we did better.  Turning back down the harbour the two boats were much better matched with a free wind.  David is an excellent helmsman and knows his boat well.  She sails like a witch.

We all sailed back to anchor again, and foregathered on La Chica for an hour or so, before Marcus, Graeme and I sailed Freebie back to her trailer.  This photo is taken from Freebie showing his bamboo batten: they were thrown into the sail in April with no preparation and still going strong!


Back to SibLim. 

I had made a kit of parts for the starboard side of the heads.  'All' that is required is to put a total of four coats of paint on.  Each side of most of those pieces.  I have had second thoughts about painting inside the lockers - it all takes so long - but thus far I'm sticking to my resolve to do so.


 I had been putting off capping the plywood on the little bulkhead next to the composter, simply because I've never done anything like this before and was scared of making a hash of it.  However, I planed down some short lengths of kauri to the correct thickness and laminated them around the curve.  When the epoxy had gone off, I trimmed the excess and glued on straight pieces at either end. 


 I was very pleased with the result.  I put stainless steel staples in the first layer, to secure it so that it didn't slither about when I came to put on the second layer.  But masking tape held that in place with no problems.  And of course, epoxy is gap filling!

 To locate the panels of the composting toilet box, I used a hot glue gun to stick pieces of plywood to hold it in place.  They show up well in this photo.  I've found that it's worth covering them with packaging tape - the glue comes away easily and can be pulled carefully off the furniture.  If you glue directly to the wood chocks, the glue can sometimes stick so well to your finished surface as to damage it.

With as much of the composter glued into place as I could, I was ready to start painting.  It's much easier to get a decent finish, hand brushing two-part polyurethane on horizontal surfaces than vertical, so I'm doing as much as I can in advance.

Some of the bulkheads had already been primed, but there's still a lot of painting to do before the rest of the furniture can be installed.


Marcus found me some piano hinge, which I used to hinge the toilet seat and also to hinge the lid, which goes on the top of the composter.


One of the problems with doing all this painting, is that it somewhat takes over the workspace of the shed, meaning that somehow I have to work around it.  Although polyurethane soon becomes touch dry, I have to remember not to make dust until it does, and then to check to remove any dust before I paint.

I am going for a satin finish outside on bulkheads, deckhead, locker fronts, etc.  Not only will it look less stark, but it will somewhat disguise the paint strokes.

Forward of the electricity box is a small counter.  In theory, once the boat is wired up, that will be it, but should I need to do anything to the wiring, it will be good to be able to put down the necessary tools and work on the switch panels with everything to hand.  Gluing the wood together at least didn't create dust or require my big table.

There is still more paint to apply, but I'm hoping to start fitting everything in place, soon.

Sometimes it's a juggle

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One of my major challenges, building this boat, is being able to visualise things at all; visualising them so that I can successfully plan ahead is beyond me, so every now and then I have to 'modify' something I've made, because what comes after won't fit around it.  It wastes a bit of time and sometimes makes a mess, but I'm learning to shrug my shoulders and accept it.  We all have our limitations and it's no good ranting at myself about my inadequacies: it just makes me depressed.

I am almost finished in the heads.  (I keep saying this).  All those coats of paint ...

And here I am, busily applying yet more paint.  This is the little door that will allow access to the back of the switch panel.  Next to it is the lid of the composter, to which the seat will be glued.  With a composter, it is apparently better to have no air gap between the seat and the base, or the lid and the seat.  This discourages insects - not that I had any problem with this on Fantail.
 

 One of my favourite jobs is varnishing, and I have a good place on which to do it - a little workbench at scaffolding height, which is away from most of the dust and well lit from the 'clear-lights' on the side of the shed.

Marcus bumped into a bloke he used to work with, a few weeks ago, who said that he had heaps more wood than he needed now that he is semi-retired from his wood turning business.  We went and visited him and bought some nice lengths of kauri, which is the wood I've used for 'tongue and groove' on the bulkheads.  I'm just planing the edge to have a proper look at it.  Lovely stuff - for bookshelves, framing that is to be finished bright, etc.

I was delighted with the finish on the toilet seat lid, until I came back the next morning.  A heap of small flies had not only committed suicide on my varnish, but had spread out their wings to do so.  I suppose I'll have to sand it down again and revarnish.  Sigh.

I had to put in some filleting, and had surplus glue.  Finally, I remembered to bond the bollard and mooring cleat on the foredeck.  The bow rollers will have to wait - they stick out so far that it would make it a nuisance to get past.

While I had varnish in hand, I coated the bulkheads in the forecabin.  Because they had epoxy underneath, just two coats seem to have made a satisfactory job.  If they get too kicked about over the next months (years?) that I'm building, it's no big deal to put on another coat.  You can see that I had a little left over, which I applied to the bulkhead on the composter.

The starboard locker with its lower shelf fitted.  This shelf, from left to right, will hold the beer brewing barrel, the dirty clothes basket (hygiene freaks please ignore their proximity) and has holes for wiring to pass up from the battery, which will be under the cabin sole.  The access hatch is there to check for moisture in the bilge.  I intend to fit an inverter to the 'right hand' bulkhead and I suspect a box full of chargers, recyclable batteries, etc will end up there, too.  Or maybe the box of fuses, connectors etc.  No doubt it will all make order of itself when I moved on board.

With the lower shelf in, I could put in the fore-and-aft bulkhead and the little varnished shelf.  I fitted a piece of trim across the bottom, which is masked off for varnishing.  Thus far, I've resisted the temptation to put a fiddle on the shelf, which I feel would be likely to end up as a 'catch all'.  However, it would also be a handy place to put my mobile phone to charge, or my e-reader, or any of the 101 things one seems to acquire, these days which require charging.

One of the things I failed to consider, was a stringer/frame for the headliner in the heads.  The deck is to consist of teak, plywood, air gap, plywood and that final ply is to provide the headliner.  Marcus showed me how to set up the table saw to create a bevel on the wood, to match the bilgeboard box and to create a landing for the headliner.

Of course, it was all nicely painted, so I had to scrape off the paint in order to fit the stringer.  I made it a little over length so that I can saw it exactly flush with my Japanese saw.  A nice bit of cedar, courtesy of my friend Murray, provided these stringers.

This is the stringer in place before scraping and gluing.  A wedge of cedar will be required at the far left of the photo.

Because I had forgotten about the necessity of this stringer, fitting it on the port side was unnecessarily awkward.  I could get no tools in for screws or pins, but wedges and clamps between them did the job.

Here is a view of the starboard stringer, glued into place.

I thought it was about time we had a 'general view'.  At last those with sharp eyes can see a bit of a difference.  Paint, mainly! But the sheer clamp has been planed down amidships (with more than a little help from Marcus) in preparation for the deck beams.

Finally, I can tick off the heads

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Heaven knows, it's taken long enough.  I will offer the usual excuses of slow execution, much head scratching, one or two steps backwards and all those coats of paint, but finally, I've have completed the fit out in the heads compartment.  Which, let us not forget, included making the composting toilet, which took more googling and tooth sucking than actual work, it has to be said.

It is surprisingly difficult to get bronze fastenings any more.  No chandler had what I wanted, I tried emailing a company in NZ, but they never replied, and Jamestown Distributors, who advertise in Wooden Boat magazine, also failed to respond to my requests for information.  In the end, as I've already mentioned, I went to Classic Marine, who gave me their usual excellent service.
 
As well as the fastenings for the portholes, I'd ordered turnbuttons and 'automatic buttons', made by Daveys.  I love these natty little things, and they make strong catches.  The ones Daveys make come with a wee bush that keeps them away from the frame so that they swing easily.

Here are the doors, finally fitted in the starboard shelving.  As you can see, the frames protrude

so I made little bosses for them to sit on.  To do this I used a 44mm holesaw and cut them out of tiger wood.  They were cut in two just under the screw hole and then glued onto the framework just above the door.

On the port side is the locker which will hold my brewing barrel.  Although this will be stowed at the forward end, I decided to fit an 'automatic button' here in case the barrel works its way aft and leans against the door.  (The brass door fittings can be seen in a later photo.)

The next job was to fit the finishing wood on the cabin sole.  For this I used the tigerwood, sawn into 6mm veneer, 40mm wide.  It stiffens up the 12mm ply to at least as stiff as the 18mm most people would use.  I made, fitted and finished sanding it over four days, which I think is a reasonable investment of time for something that will require no more maintenance than the occasional clean.

I decided simply to use temporary screws and plug the holes after.  Sash clamps would have been the ideal way to hold the planks down flat, but I don't have anyand screws were a quick and easy way of doing it.  Drilling plugs using a drill press doesn't take a lot of time and nor, for that matter, does putting them in.

There are two hatches in the sole area, so once I had fitted the planks, I predrilled some of the screw holes, so that everything would line up properly, and then took them down to glue up on a table.

By using washers between the screw head and the wood, I can make sure that there is minimal damage, which makes final finishing a lot faster.

I put all the plugs in with aliphatic PVA, which is a lot quicker and less messy than epoxy for this sort of job.  When the glue had cured, I used my multitool to cut them off.  This worked wonderfully well - made for the job!

Once I'd finished sanding it, I gave a quick skim along the edges to fair them off a little and soften the corner.

Personally, I think it all looks rather smart.  The framing around the doors (fitted to hide my wiggly jigsaw cuts) add a spurious air of quality, heightened by the 'automatic button'.

The tigerwood will quickly become redder - judging by the offcuts kicking around the shed -  and I think makes a pleasant contrast with the kauri.  You can see the finished composter and the catches on the starboard lockers here, too.

And here is the finished composter, showing the bucket. (I had to replace the orange with a black one: the orange one ended up about 5mm too high!)  The white under the seat is the diverter.


The switch panels were sitting around getting dusty, so I thought I might as well fit those, too.

All in all, I'm rather pleased with the whole thing and more than ready to move on with something else!!
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